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brews's Logbook (2 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Montana: Rock Climbing: Butte: Humbug Spires: The Wedge

The Mutt and Jeff popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: brews on 2014-08-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great route!! Don't tell anyone

First. Its a stunning location & no one around. Beautiful 1.5h hike in on maintained trail (by chainsaw, of note, so why no powerdrills??).
First pitch traverse-couple of chicken heads & then fling left foot out to get the only decent hold, balance on that foot & shift over holding on to nothing. Wouldn't want to be short for that move.
Second pitch- not really a hanging belay. 2 bolts and decent ledge. Maybe this is new.
Third pitch, I went to the end of the diagonally rising off-width(fun) till it ended. To go to the rat infested area- I put in a piece high then step down to chock stone shaped like a short bridge or plank that spans a monster vertical channel/scoup thing, that I wouldn't describe as a crack (gear belay). I'm not confident I belayed from the right place & walking that chockstone was, I'm not gonna lie, scary! Pitch 4 is really fun & combines easily with pitch 5 to the top.
Note there is a second rap station 30' down from the first & with a 60 or 70m rope you can get to ground with 2 raps.

Added: 2014-09-10

Routes: North America: United States: Montana: Rock Climbing: Butte: Humbug Spires: The Wedge

Southeast Chimney Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: brews on 2014-09-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars combine with butterknife? I dunno.

We did butterknife approach and then traverse over to the start of the SE chimney. 2 pitches of butterknife can be combined if you do 20-30' of easy simul climbing & belay at a large boulder a few feet below the balcony ledge. The traverse was a pain in the ass (esp if 2nd climber is weaker). If I did it again, I'd climb butterknife. Rap off. Walk over to the SE chimney & start again there. First pitch of the chimney has almost no gear until a horizontal about 80' up (maybe if U have >camalot #4). Not difficult but unnerving. From that piece I broke out of the chimney & climbed face/crack on the right to an impromptu belay/rap in a shallow corner (slung horn & nut). Straight up from there to the overhanging part of the chimney..lots of holds there & good gear. Last pitch is just like the description, but not like the topo. Belay at a single bolt, or a 2 bolt rap station 4' to the right.
Note for the decesnt, the above mentioned rap station obviates the need for a second rope for rapping to the ground.

Added: 2014-09-10