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brinosaur's Logbook (59 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (1)



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Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: Meadow River & Tributaries: Second Buttress

Unlisted 5.10 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: brinosaur on 2012-05-22 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Decent, but not as good as its neighbors

Odd start to an OK route. Lots of bogus chalked up holds leading to dead ends on the face.

Added: 2012-05-22

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: Meadow River & Tributaries: Second Buttress

One Banana Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: brinosaur on 2012-05-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great movement after the face.

So-so climbing up the face, but super fun once you reach the bulge and roofs.

Added: 2012-05-22

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: Gauley River & Tributaries (Summersville): Summersville Lake: DC Memorial Boulder

All the Way Baby Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: brinosaur on 2012-03-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Over too soon

Basically a bolted highball, V5-6. It is such a shame that this line isn't located in the middle of a much larger climb.

Added: 2012-03-28

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Endless Wall: Honeymooners to Fantasy Roof

Discombobulated Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: brinosaur on 2012-03-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Low crux for the short...

The sequence gaining the second bolt felt tough for the grade until my taller second showed me up. Far easier climbing follows with some slightly suspect rock in the sequence following the chimney.

Added: 2012-03-28

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Endless Wall: Honeymooners to Fantasy Roof

Legacy Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: brinosaur on 2012-03-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic

Nice variety of movement, good rock, and beautiful view. As of 3/27/12, there are none of the aforementioned fixed draws.

Added: 2012-03-28

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: Gauley River & Tributaries (Summersville): Whipporwill: Whipporwill Left

Holy Mackerel Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: brinosaur on 2011-11-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good

Bring lots of fist sized gear. The ledge up top is very nice, but watch those blocks on the left!

Added: 2011-11-21

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: Gauley River & Tributaries (Summersville): Whipporwill: Whipporwill Left

Unholy Mackerel Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: brinosaur on 2011-11-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good stuff

Very fun little climb. Cool movement between good crimps on the face and techy sections involving the thin seam.
The gear is pretty decent up to the base of the seam and again above it, but the thin section is slightly heady - there are marginal placements in the seam for a tiny cam or two.

Added: 2011-11-21

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: Gauley River & Tributaries (Summersville): Summersville Lake: Long Wall

Minimum Overdrive Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: brinosaur on 2011-11-06 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Crap low, good high.

Yikes. Terrible, crumbly rock for the first two bolts followed by some pretty good face climbing after passing the roof. All of the rock around the oddly-bolted start is highly suspect.

Do yourself a favor -- stick clip the second bolt and aid up to the jugs. It wouldn't really change the grade, and more importantly it would bypass the chossy garbage leading to the first bolt and the ensuing traverse left.

Added: 2011-11-06

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: Gauley River & Tributaries (Summersville): Summersville Lake: Long Wall

Maximum Overdrive Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: brinosaur on 2011-11-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

Do it belly-to-the-bolts for a full on 11d -- wandering out right eliminates some *very* fun cruxes.
Neat holds at the top -- you go in expecting a crimps and end up with jugs at a few points. The start SUCKS for short folks.

Added: 2011-11-06

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: Gauley River & Tributaries (Summersville): Summersville Lake: Pirates Cove

Mutiny Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: brinosaur on 2011-11-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Excellent line

Hands down, the best sport line in Pirate's Cove. Cruxes low just above the first bolt and up high, just after the last clip. Don't follow topropers' chalk and wander too far left of the arete!
The first bolt is high, but the beginning protects well with a #2 or #3 cam.

Added: 2011-11-06

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