Routes : Reviews
brinosaur's Logbook (59 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (1)
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Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: Meadow River & Tributaries: Second Buttress
Unlisted 5.10
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Decent, but not as good as its neighbors
Odd start to an OK route. Lots of bogus chalked up holds leading to dead ends on the face.
Added: 2012-05-22
Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: Meadow River & Tributaries: Second Buttress
One Banana
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Great movement after the face.
So-so climbing up the face, but super fun once you reach the bulge and roofs.
Added: 2012-05-22
Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: Gauley River & Tributaries (Summersville): Summersville Lake: DC Memorial Boulder
All the Way Baby
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Over too soon
Basically a bolted highball, V5-6. It is such a shame that this line isn't located in the middle of a much larger climb.
Added: 2012-03-28
Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Endless Wall: Honeymooners to Fantasy Roof
Discombobulated
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Low crux for the short...
The sequence gaining the second bolt felt tough for the grade until my taller second showed me up. Far easier climbing follows with some slightly suspect rock in the sequence following the chimney.
Added: 2012-03-28
Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Endless Wall: Honeymooners to Fantasy Roof
Legacy
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Classic
Nice variety of movement, good rock, and beautiful view. As of 3/27/12, there are none of the aforementioned fixed draws.
Added: 2012-03-28
Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: Gauley River & Tributaries (Summersville): Whipporwill: Whipporwill Left
Holy Mackerel
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Good
Bring lots of fist sized gear. The ledge up top is very nice, but watch those blocks on the left!
Added: 2011-11-21
Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: Gauley River & Tributaries (Summersville): Whipporwill: Whipporwill Left
Unholy Mackerel
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Good stuff
Very fun little climb. Cool movement between good crimps on the face and techy sections involving the thin seam.
The gear is pretty decent up to the base of the seam and again above it, but the thin section is slightly heady - there are marginal placements in the seam for a tiny cam or two.
The gear is pretty decent up to the base of the seam and again above it, but the thin section is slightly heady - there are marginal placements in the seam for a tiny cam or two.
Added: 2011-11-21
Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: Gauley River & Tributaries (Summersville): Summersville Lake: Long Wall
Minimum Overdrive
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Crap low, good high.
Yikes. Terrible, crumbly rock for the first two bolts followed by some pretty good face climbing after passing the roof. All of the rock around the oddly-bolted start is highly suspect.
Do yourself a favor -- stick clip the second bolt and aid up to the jugs. It wouldn't really change the grade, and more importantly it would bypass the chossy garbage leading to the first bolt and the ensuing traverse left.
Do yourself a favor -- stick clip the second bolt and aid up to the jugs. It wouldn't really change the grade, and more importantly it would bypass the chossy garbage leading to the first bolt and the ensuing traverse left.
Added: 2011-11-06
Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: Gauley River & Tributaries (Summersville): Summersville Lake: Long Wall
Maximum Overdrive
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
.
Do it belly-to-the-bolts for a full on 11d -- wandering out right eliminates some *very* fun cruxes.
Neat holds at the top -- you go in expecting a crimps and end up with jugs at a few points. The start SUCKS for short folks.
Neat holds at the top -- you go in expecting a crimps and end up with jugs at a few points. The start SUCKS for short folks.
Added: 2011-11-06
Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: Gauley River & Tributaries (Summersville): Summersville Lake: Pirates Cove
Mutiny
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Excellent line
Hands down, the best sport line in Pirate's Cove. Cruxes low just above the first bolt and up high, just after the last clip. Don't follow topropers' chalk and wander too far left of the arete!
The first bolt is high, but the beginning protects well with a #2 or #3 cam.
The first bolt is high, but the beginning protects well with a #2 or #3 cam.
Added: 2011-11-06









