bustinmins's Logbook (29 ascents)

I didn't climb over the roof but the face climb was definately a challenge. Lots of small holds - your feet zig zag and overall - my favorite route on the crag.

The face I'd rate at an 8+ excluding the overhang of course. :)

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Fun face climb! You'll not get your first positive fingers until you get up about 20'. :) Great route for those that don't trust their feet! :) Worked for me. I didn't do the crux overhang thus I'd rate this route a 9+. It's thin, lacks positive holds in spots and has good miniscule feet.

Fun Fun Fun route! I need footwork and this route was just exactly what I needed. Not many positive holds with the hands until you get to the top third of the route.

This was a fun route. Positive feet and hands - a great climb for a beginner.

5.0 above and below the 5.5 crux at the bulge. Good first time out climb but otherwise, a waste of your time.

Climbed it using only hexes. Five in fact. I had to sling a long runner in one very convenient hole but used no pro other than hexes.

This was my first multi-pitch lead. I found the anchor placements to be straight forward and overall pretty easy. If you are competing for the anchor on the first belay ledge, you may need some larger cams. I had to place a 3/3.5/4 since the smaller crack beneath the chimney was taken by another group. The chimney was runout and I was about 25-30 feet above my last piece of protection. I had to girth hitch a few chock blocks to do this. The runout was on easy climbing and you were in a chimney - if you were to take a leader fall there you'd only fall into the chimney about 10 feet. Thus the runout isn't as bad as it sounds until you top out of the chimney with no protection. As you get to the top of the chimney - start stemming and leave the chimney about 10' before you top out. Go left and you have several great positive placements for hands/feet. This is where the runout is a bit sketchy. I found only a girth hitched chock and one good hex/nut placement on the second pitch. All in all - great route. I'll do it again many times until I get more comfortable with my rope and team management. The were two cruxes for me. I thought the first 20 feet were the most difficult climbing and the chimney was a bit exciting as well. I will certainly do this route again. It's a challenging route for new leaders. I was able to place just about every type of protection on the first pitch. I would recommend you take a 3.5 and a 4 on the second pitch. This will give you about four placements on the second pitch - protect the chimney and you'll cruise it!

This route was "a runout bitch" according to the lead. He Redpointed it with style. Thus he enabled me to try this quirky 8. This was an ackward 8 but it was fun and well recommended if you don't mind runouts.

Five clips to a two bolt anchor with no chains. I found base section to the first clip to be the crux for me. Good route..great warm-up and fun.