bustinmins's Logbook (29 ascents)

This was a fun and very well recommended route. The crux was at the top of the route at the flake.

The Eldo guide said to rack up to a #4 Cam - I did so. However, I ascended up with a hex mindset even though I carried a full rack(still a newbie but learning to read the routes better). I placed about 5-6 hexes and one #1 Cam. When I got to the top of the route, the anchor is a thick cable and backed up by a black section of rope. I didn't think the anchor was sufficient by itself, so I backed it up with an additional anchor above the rap anchor. If you are uncomfortable with this anchor for rapping, then you can traverse to the left of the face up to the top of the crack and rap from there or climb off of the east face using a Class 4 scramble.

Great second trad route - will do it again and the next time it will be with all hexes...just to say I did it that way. :)

Peace, James

I love this route. It is a perfect first trad lead and also a great route to initiate a person to climbing outside.

This time - I made it all the way up to the top of the route. The last time we were limited on time so I wasn't able to complete it. There wasn't really a crux to me - the last 25 feet provided some fun foot work but nothing less than superb beginner rock. :)

A trad mentor of mine, Eric May, suggested that I climb this route several times and go up with different "pro" mindsets. Thus sometimes when I climb think - ALL PASSIVE NUTS or I'm going to use all of my hexes or cams etc. Thus you can develop seeing new protection placements each time you climb this route. You feel super comfortable placing pro on this route. Absolutely one of the best places to practice placing pro and doing all of the duties of a trad lead.

My first trad lead and what a wonderful route it was for that purpose. Super juggy holds that provide you with ample comfort while you place your first pro. It is also a great beginner route should you take anyone new climbing. I'm happy to say that my first trad lead was in Eldorado Canyon. However - time was short and that limited my time on the rock. Thus I only completed half of the route this day.

This route was my first 5.7 lead. Ninety feet of pure fun. The crack at the top slopes from the right to left and was fun to climb using foot jams and excellent holds. The crux of the route for me was with my footwork. The middle section has about 15 feet of minimal handholds and small foot placements. It certainly will challenge your footwork and problem solving ability. I made it up in the first try but it wasn't a speed ascent by any means. I thoroughly recommend this for your first 5.7 sport lead - it is very well protected and fun. Be sure to tie stopper knots in your rappel rope and don't forget to remove them when you pull the rope through. :)

This climb is a 5.6 S and I placed pro on this route while climbing it via a top rope. The climb challenges your feet and really has some small handholds for a 5.6. True to form - the Eldo ratings are soft and this was a short but fun climb. I had to work my way to the edge and come up the left side of the pyramid to complete the route. Eldorado Canyon has shown me that I need to get more comfortable with my footwork and rely less on my hands.

The "other edge" I like to call this one. :) This was my first 5.8+ that I climbed clean. Challenged my footwork and really felt easier for me personally than the simple simon slab(5.6S).

I enjoyed the route. This was my first crack climb and my first time to clean a trad route. The first two pitches were tough for me but the top three were fantastic.

I think this route was well worth the time. I'm an endurance(slow) climber and it took me about 4.0 hours or so to do the whole thing.

I needed a Texas prusik to help myself up two small areas(totalling 20 inches) that I couldn't get but overall - great climb.

The crux to me was the cross over on the first pitch - probably the most dangerous part for the lead. This is the most popular route and second in accidents in Eldorado Canyon.

This route was fun and a great first lead for me. I think this route is good for a climbers first outdoor climb. This slab is great, well protected and fun. The crux of it for me was the beginning to the first clip. The fall, if you should take one, wouldn't be a pretty one since the fall would be down hill - onto a boulder - then downhill further into Clear Creek. Excellent scenery and far enough away from the road that you can't hear the traffic. I recommend the catslab to all moderate climbers.

This was my first outside route. Happy Hour Crag is a great place to start. This route was a challenge for a new person like me as I had never stemmed a route before. The middle section has a nice little protrusion out on the route that you have to either chimney to the right or grab it and stem over. I was able to make it to the top on the first try and have enjoyed taking new people to this crag as well.