Routes : Reviews
byran's Logbook (37 ascents)
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Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Glacier Point Apron: Apron
Goodrich Pinnacle, Right Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Safety Rating | G |
Hang Dog ascent by: byran on 2009-06-25
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Goodrich Pinnacle
The first few pitches are sort of mediocre. The slab pitches are interesting with some easy runouts and well protected cruxes. The final chimney is the best pitch - fun, easy, well protected, and a good introduction to Yosemite chimney climbing.
We were baking in the sun the whole way up this thing, and only had a liter of water for the 2 of us. The wind finally picked up as we started the rappels and cooled us off but also caused an endless number of rope snags.
We were baking in the sun the whole way up this thing, and only had a liter of water for the 2 of us. The wind finally picked up as we started the rappels and cooled us off but also caused an endless number of rope snags.
Added: 2009-07-06
Routes: North America: United States: California: Bishop and Eastern Sierra: Lone Pine Peak Area: Lone Pine Peak
North Ridge Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: byran on 2009-06-20
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North Ridge
It took me about 9.5 hours, car to car. The approach is very short if you're a fast hiker - took less than 2 hours, and I drove up from sea level the night before. The climb itself is a long Grade III however. Lots of fairly exposed 4th, and lots of notches to negotiate. Be selective about what you rope up for and try to keep moving. The ridge is a lot longer than it looks from the base. And it might not have continuous stretches of 5th class, but what's there is quite stout for 5.4.
Added: 2009-07-06
Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Central Utah: Capitol Reef National Park: Basketball Wall
Bench Warmer Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: byran on 2009-06-15
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Bench Warmer
Excellent hand crack. Takes gear from 1.5" to 3" (#1 to #3 Camalots). It's short though so you don't need more than doubles in those sizes to sew it up. It felt easy for .10a but probably because it fit my hands so well.
Added: 2009-06-17
Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Black Velvet Canyon: Black Velvet Wall
Epinephrine popular Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: byran on 2009-06-11
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Epinephrine
There's lots of quality pitches on this one. It doesn't offer the intense exposure that some of the other routes on Black Velvet do, but the climbing is more varied and enjoyable. We climbed this on a temperate and overcast day in June and had the entire canyon to ourselves. Not a single other car in the parking lot and perfect weather. The descent took us almost 3 hours because my partner had a tender ankle from a bouldering injury sustained a couple weeks earlier. The climbing went fast however so we had plenty of daylight. Around 11 1/2 hours total from car to car.
Added: 2009-06-17
Routes: North America: United States: California: Bishop and Eastern Sierra: Whitney Portal: Candlelight Buttress
The Sheltering Sky Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: byran on 2009-06-07
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Sheltering Sky
Not quite the 5 star climb I was expecting. The route follows a somewhat inobvious line, rather than attack a line of weakness such as a ramp system or waterstreak. There's nothing really to make this line stand out from the climbing 10 feet to the right or left. And this knobby shit just plain hurts. Hurts the fingers, hurts the feet - a hanging belay never looked so comfy. The last two pitches were more enjoyable because they're easier and less painful. It gets a star for good rock, a star for good pro, and a star for good exposure.
Added: 2009-06-17
Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Moab: Fisher Towers: Ancient Art
Stolen Chimney popular Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: byran on 2009-03-29
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Ancient Art
A climb both beautiful and terrifying. I'd never have considered climbing such a precarious formation without the relief that it's held the weight of so many other climbers before me. The first ascensionists must have truly been lunatics. We had 50mph gusts on the summit making the whole thing quite a bit more exciting. One of my most memorable climbing experiences. It goes free at a much easier grade than 5.10c - a more "moderate" tower than anything in Castle Valley.
Added: 2009-06-17
Routes: North America: United States: California: Bishop and Eastern Sierra: Pine Creek: Ministry Wall
Rites of Spring Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: byran on 2009-05-24
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Rites of Spring
This is a must-do for any 5.10 climber. It's got superb exposure, clean rock, good pro, and a variety of different cracks. All 4 pitches are great and each offer a different challenge. Make two 60M rappels (watch the ends!) to get down.
Added: 2009-05-27
Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Wonderland of Rocks (North): The Slatanic Area
Witch Hunt Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: byran on 2009-05-03
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Witch Hunt
Enjoyable climbing up a face and arete. Bring a bit of gear (up to green Metolius) for the crack in the beginning. There's a short 10b crux right after the 2nd bolt, but most of the climbing is 5.9 or below. I'd have given it 4 stars if it was more sustained. The Slatanic Area is perched high up on the ridge dividing Rattlesnake Canyon and The Valley of Kings. Spectacular view, but a pain in the arse to get to.
South of Heaven (5.12d) looks incredible. I hope one day I'm strong enough to work on it.
South of Heaven (5.12d) looks incredible. I hope one day I'm strong enough to work on it.
Added: 2009-05-04
Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Queen Mountain: Lower Walt
Perfect Fingers Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: byran on 2009-03-08
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Perfect Finger Crack
Excellent route, on par with Illusion Dweller and just about any other Joshua Tree climb at the grade. Do it!
I found the crux to be the thin stuff near the start (blue TCU protects), although the climb is fairly sustained throughout. The tilted chimney looks really awkward from the ground, but some good edges on the face make it easier. Bring some hand to fist size gear for the anchor.
I found the crux to be the thin stuff near the start (blue TCU protects), although the climb is fairly sustained throughout. The tilted chimney looks really awkward from the ground, but some good edges on the face make it easier. Bring some hand to fist size gear for the anchor.
Added: 2009-03-09
Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Wonderland of Rocks (North): Suicide Horn Rock
Bighorn Dihedral Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Onsight ascent by: byran on 2009-02-28
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Bighorn Dihedral
It's a striking line for sure, but the climbing isn't quite as enjoyable as I had hoped. The start is a steep jamcrack that can get pumpy just before you pull over the lip (crux) into the lower-angle dihedral. You then climb a fingercrack that becomes more shallow until it's impossible to lieback, and shortly after, impossible to protect. Luckily, as the crack becomes a useless seam, the rock also becomes lower angle. The final 30 feet are runout but no harder than 5.7. Wedge your left foot in the corner of the dihedral and handle the chossy features with care. Some more traffic would do this route good, but due to it's remote location, the rock isn't likely to get cleaned up anytime soon.
Added: 2009-03-01