Skip to Content

Routes : Reviews

canmoron's Logbook (24 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (0)



Show: Sort by: Display:

Comments:  Show | Hide

> >|

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Canmore: Mount McGillivray: McGillivray Slabs

Morningside Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2013-07-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Morningside

A couple things worth noting:
1) Rock quality on first pitch sucks, the rest is good.
2) This is a bolted climb but certainly not a sport climb. Expect some long runouts.
3) The cruxes are short, but if you cannot lead 5.9 I would exercise caution. The crux on P2 is right above a big ledge.
4) You can rap the route with a 70m rope.

Good route but don't underestimate it.

Added: 2013-07-07

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Tuolumne Meadows: Drug Dome: Drug Dome

Oz Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: canmoron on 2009-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Amazing corner

Once again, failed to send pitch 2 clean. Maybe next time. Incredible route. Bring lots of purple/green camalot sized cams for "the corner".

Added: 2009-09-22

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Tuolumne Meadows: Fairview Dome: North Side

Lucky Streaks popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2009-09-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Excellent

Another fine Tuolumne classic.

Added: 2009-09-22

Routes: North America: United States: California: Bishop and Eastern Sierra: Incredible Hulk: Incredible Hulk

Positive Vibrations popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2009-09-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars The real deal

This route is one of the finest on the continent. The only route I've done of comparable quality is Sunshine Crack in the Bugaboos.

Added: 2009-09-14

Routes: North America: United States: California: Bishop and Eastern Sierra: Incredible Hulk: Incredible Hulk

Ygdrasil/Red Dihedral Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2009-09-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Four parties on the route today

The Incredible Hulk is an amazing peak, but I felt this route was slightly over-rated in terms of quality. Some of the belays are on big, detached features. Still a good route though. We went car-to-car using mountain bikes to reduce the approach time - you can ride at least a mile up to the Wilderness boundary. I would definitely bring a double set of cams to 3".

Added: 2009-09-09

Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Coast & Cascade Mountains: Mount Slesse: East Side

Northeast Buttress Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2009-08-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Direct NE Buttress

We approached easily via the Propeller Cairn since the Bypass Glacier was pretty much gone and the North Glacier looked too scary to cross under. Lower buttress is overall quite mossy/slabby and up to 5.10a. Starts on a blocky arete with (initially) clean cracks. Descended via Crossover and down memorable, blackfly-infested bushwhacking. No ice axe or mtn. boots needed right now. No water available anywhere on the buttress.

Added: 2009-08-21

Routes: North America: United States: Alaska: Southeast Alaska-Coastal Range: Devils thumb: Devil's Thumb

East Ridge Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2009-07-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A fine coast range climb

Helicopter from Petersburg can take 2 climbers and gear. Total cost return is ~$1,000.
We found the route in very dry conditions which no doubt made our ascent more straightforward. 15 hours camp to camp.
A long, enjoyable ridge climb on mostly excellent rock. The views are spectacular, 6,500' down the north side and 3,500' down the south side!

Added: 2009-08-05

Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: The Bugaboos: Snowpatch Spire

Sunshine Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2009-07-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Pitch after pitch of perfect splitters!

See Atkinson/Piche guide for detailed beta. I found pitches 1 and 3 to be easier than the GB says, more like .10- and with short cruxes. You can leave your #5 camalots at the top of pitch 2 and get them on the way down. They are not needed higher up. I recommend belaying just below the crux roof on p7, otherwise the leader could splat on the low-angled slab if they whip. This makes it a 10m pitch but it works best that way. Pitch 8 is probably undergraded at 5.9 in the GB. It's more like 5.10b. There are two gear belays: at the top of p6 and at the top of p10 (small-medium cams/nuts). The rest are fixed bolt anchors that are used for rapping the route. For p10 I would bring four #4 camalots. Kneepads are nice for the p2 OW and also for all the semi-hanging belays.

Added: 2009-08-05

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Cathedral Rocks: Spires: Lower Cathedral Spire

South by Southwest Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2009-05-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Pitch 5 is amazing!

Our party of three felt the .10d pitch was very hard - more like .11b, and the "crux" .11a pitch felt "easy" - more like .10+. Maybe we missed something on the .10d pitch?



Added: 2009-05-24

Routes: North America: Canada: Northwest Territories: Mackenzie Mountains: Cirque of the Unclimables: Lotus Flower Tower

Lotus Flower Tower SE Face popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2008-08-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars August 2008

Here are some notes fresh from our ascent ~1 week ago:
Flying in as a party of four will save you money.
The lower part of the route to the bivy ledge is pretty average (dirty and loose), but the upper headwall is immaculate.
The approach takes 1-1.5 hours from Fairy Meadows. The route dries out relatively quickly in good weather, and we were able to free climb right from the bottom.
The first 3 pitches have fixed ropes and are the last pitches to dry out. Of the 8 parties that successfully climbed the LFT during the week I was in there, most failed on their first attempt. Of the failed parties, all used the fixed ropes on their subsequent successful ascent. Most fail because they run out of either time or energy. The first 3 pitches and the upper headwall pitches are very sustained and you can't run up them, despite their moderate grade. Start early, bring lots of food and plan on a very long day. Overall, expect an outing of Scenic Cruise or Steck-Salathe proportions.

Gear: double set of cams to 3" plus a 4" piece, two sets of nuts.

Descent: Many double rope raps. The rap route mostly follows a line to the climber's right of the ascent route. I strongly recommend switching to single rope raps for the bottom 3 pitches, because everyone gets the knot stuck rapping pitch 3.

Added: 2008-08-12

> >|