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charlenelieu's Logbook (137 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (28)



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Routes: North America: United States: Virginia: North Western: Hidden Rocks: Lower-Upper Hidden

Snow Blower Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: charlenelieu on 2010-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars hide and go seek

Impossible to find, but fun. Best climbing near Norfolk, VA (near is relative). Probably safest to top rope.

Added: 2010-10-09

Routes: North America: United States: Idaho: Twin Falls: City of Rocks National Reserve: Jackson's Thumb

Theater of Shadows Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: charlenelieu on 2010-08-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars well protected and fun

4 long pitches... a great starter route for new multi-pitch leads, but super fun even for old hands.

1st pitch is the crux pitch (5.7), but very straight forward... there is never a place where you have to make a sketchy move. 2nd pitch significantly easier (5.5). The 3rd pitch (5.6)gets a bit exposed as you traverse over to the right of the spine, so this would be the crux pitch for those scared of heights. The final pitch is short and sweet (5.4).

The entire route could be free-ed by experienced climbers (but for safety reasons, I'd recommend it only if you consistently lead 5.10+).

Fantastically well protected, one of the better thought out routes I've seen. Bring lots of draws, although bolt skipping is possible... since bolt placement can be as close as 3 feet.

Don't let the approach dissuade you. It's long for COR, but no harder than any other good multi-pitch in Red Rocks, Taquitz or the Sierras. Probably one of my favorite multi-pitch climbs, ever... it's quick and easy with phenomemal views. We did it without breakfast or water (not recommended, but just to give you an idea of how easy it is).

Allot 3.5 hours, minimum, for total trip from the car if no wait. 0.75 hour approach, 1.25 hours climb, 1.5 hours decent and return hike.

Added: 2010-09-03

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: Holcomb Valley Pinnacles: Thunderbird Wall

Nervous Twitch Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: charlenelieu on 2010-05-31 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars memorial day 'scend

second ascent of this route... been at least a year. crux right before the shelf and another mid way through the bluge.

Added: 2010-06-06

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Lost Horse: Atlantis Wall

Self Abuse Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: charlenelieu on 2010-02-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars first lead of the year...

start slightly up the incline of the boulder through a crack... I traversed right of the peak boulder, not too sure if it's off route.

Added: 2010-02-25

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Quail Springs: Trash Can Rock

B-1 (aka "The Trough") Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: charlenelieu on 2010-02-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Newbie's first lead

Free soloed "The Trough" while Joe and Alex did their first trad lead on Walkaway. Eventhoug it's a 5.1, it's J-tree and it feels harder.

Added: 2010-02-25

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Roadside Crag

Ledger Line** popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: charlenelieu on 2009-12-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars slippery when wet

the first move off the ground was easily a 5.9 move and the rest of the route was heavily dependent on balance and frictional feet placement, which is darn difficult when wet. The entire route might be 5.9 in (or post) rain.

Added: 2009-12-07

Routes: Europe: Ireland: Dublin: Dalkey: West Valley

gargoyle groove Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Scenery
Solo Solo ascent by: charlenelieu on 2009-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars not sure what got into me

Such a beautiful line, I had to get on it... but then realized it was way WAY too stiff for solo-ing.

Move up a small slab to the base of the crack. You can skip it all together if you opt for a great jug to the right and a ledge to the left.

That's about as far as I got before I realized I needed to come down... although the temptation was great to keep going. Really really wished I had a rope and a partner.

Added: 2009-09-06

Routes: Europe: Ireland: Dublin: Dalkey: West Valley

Pauls Edge Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Scenery
Solo Solo ascent by: charlenelieu on 2009-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars solo by circumstance

was hoping to pick up a partner, and showed up to the crag on a sunny afternoon. There was no climbers to be found. The lovely woman (a North Carolina transplant) picking blackberries gave me a knowing look and says: "it's Friday" (translation: Friday in Ireland means only one thing... pubs over crags... DOH). So I got the crag to myself with no one but Bailey (an Irish Sheepdog) to watch over me.

I picked the most obvious route I can find... up the easy face on to the square block... two big face moves and traverse to a second face (the only sketchy move given the lack of rope) and up the dihedral.

The downclimb was the real tricky part... since I couldn't top out. NOT recommended for soloing.

Added: 2009-09-06

Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Boulder Area: Boulder Canyon: Castle Rock

The Gill Crack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: charlenelieu on 2009-08-29 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars FAILED

There really needs a new "ascent style" called "FAILED" (or more nicely "PROJECT").

Strugled up about a third of the way with a tight belay on this slick and sloppy crack. Total and utter failure, but still wanted to put it on the log as a reminder of what I need to work towards... kinda like that picture of Alessandra Ambrosio in my bathroom that inspire me to work out.

Added: 2009-09-06

Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Boulder Area: Boulder Canyon: Castle Rock

Black Crack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: charlenelieu on 2009-08-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars impressive...

The guide book said it was a 5.9, so we jumped on it... I got a bit cocky and thought I'd lead it in my current post-op condition and completely failed. My partner, however, managed to lead it through the various ackward moves. The more I think about it, the more impressed I am. Seriously, wow... not too sure I'd be able to do it even if I was in prime shape. It's a very fun route that require you to pull out all the technique stops.

There's a rare chance to jam a knee bar (under the roof corner, over the bulge) after a shoulder slot. Weird, tough, but fun.

Added: 2009-09-06

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