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chocoface's Logbook (76 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Maine: Down East: Acadia National Park: Otter Cliffs

A Dare by The Sea *** popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: chocoface on 2008-09-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Best at the cliffs!

Beautiful climb.

Added: 2008-09-21

Routes: North America: United States: Maine: Down East: Acadia National Park: Otter Cliffs

Outer Face *** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: chocoface on 2008-09-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars 5.8 if you're 7 feet tall.

The Butterfield book says .10a. Maybe not...but not an .8.

Added: 2008-09-21

Routes: North America: United States: Maine: Down East: Acadia National Park: Otter Cliffs

Guillotine Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: chocoface on 2008-09-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice at high tide!

Trickier with wet shoes.

Added: 2008-09-21

Routes: North America: United States: Maine: Down East: Acadia National Park: Canada Cliffs

Commander Salamander ** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: chocoface on 2008-09-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Beautiful Climbing, Stay in the crack

Much more fun to stay in the crack at the top. Ignore the face holds.

Added: 2008-09-21

Routes: North America: United States: Pennsylvania: Southeastern Region: Birdsboro: 4) Zorro Face

Jenga Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: chocoface on 2008-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars scary 4th clip, lots of loose rock, be careful

Similar to climbing zoro's corner, the fourth clip is scary. On zoro's corner missing the shuts could mean decking or swinging. On Jenga, missing the fourth clip (which is a super hard clip for the grade) means swinging into the zoro face and having your rope run over sharp rock. Using a long sling on the 3rd clip lessens the rope drag but increases the swing potential. Use an old rope, a good belayer (with a helmet) and bring a .75 camalot to protect the swing if you can. Or... just do it.

Added: 2008-09-01

Routes: North America: United States: Pennsylvania: Southeastern Region: Ralph Stover State Park (aka High Rocks): 07) Great buttress

Tales from the Crypt Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: chocoface on 2008-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A great surprise on a busy day!

Went to Stover to climb Phone Booth. It was a sunday...beautiful weather and thus...jam packed. Walked back the trail and found this route. Turned out to be terrific.

Added: 2008-06-01

Routes: North America: United States: Pennsylvania: Southeastern Region: Ralph Stover State Park (aka High Rocks): 07) Great buttress

Deans List Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: chocoface on 2008-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Thanks Mark and Rob

Mark lent Michelle and I his toprope to climb this pumpy route

Added: 2008-06-01

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Moab: Indian Creek: friction slabs

unnamed 5.9 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: chocoface on 2007-10-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Inspiring

Long way to first clip, loved it.

Added: 2007-10-15

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Moab: Indian Creek: friction slabs

sundance Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: chocoface on 2007-10-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice and sunny

Balancy and fun.

Added: 2007-10-15

Routes: North America: United States: Wyoming: Eastern Wy.: Devils Tower: Devils Tower

Durrance Route popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Flash Flash ascent by: chocoface on 2007-10-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Terrific route full of misleading info!

First off, awesome climb! But if you are planning a trip up the Durrance here are some things I found. The guide books for the route all warn of the huge rack one needs to climb the Durrance. Double and triple sets of cams etc. Not so. Perhaps the reason people think this route is so much harder than its rating is that they are carrying way too much gear. If one carried six camalots (.5-4) and a set of nuts and a couple big hexes, they'd be fine! I was surprised at the amount of gear I needed. I typically place much more on routes at the Gunks. The placements were obvious 99% of the time. Also, there are nice eyebolts at each belay point. So you don't need to leave gear at the belay! You start each pitch with a full rack! The pitches all went about 5.7-5.8 as advertised except for durrance crack which I would rate 5.9. My advice, get there at sunrise on a weekday, take the bowling alley approach (adds another pitch of climbing!) and do the Jump traverse to a ropeless meadows finish. A full day adventure.

Added: 2007-10-15

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