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csanich's Logbook (45 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (8)



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Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Camelback Mountain: Headwall

Rain of Terror Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: csanich on 2009-09-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Easy this time

The crux of this has been challenging before. Today the whole thing seemed easy. Watched my feet placement more.

I rate it a PG13 because I've had big rocks break off before, not because of lack of protection.

Added: 2009-09-25

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Lookout Mountain: Dead Dobie Wall

Totally Trad Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: csanich on 2009-09-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Challenging in spots

This route had some really easy (almost scramble moments) but I needed those breaks for a couple tough parts. The crux is a bulge at the top (by which time I was pretty pumped). I could lead most 5.8's, but this doesn't have enough protection for me, with the tough spots it has.

Added: 2009-09-11

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Lookout Mountain: Dead Dobie Wall

Unknown Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: csanich on 2009-09-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun getting back on the wall

Haven't climbed all summer, b/c too busy (shame on us). So, this was a great route to get back on lead. It's pretty sustained 5.7, with multiple line options. There are new hangers at the top with chains (old shuts are loose and rusty).

Added: 2009-09-11

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Pinnacle Peak: Y- Crack Boulder

Jam on Jam Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: csanich on 2009-05-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars I must not know crack

This felt like the biggest mis-rate of my entire rock climbing career. I struggled up this climb like it was a 5.8-5.9. I don't climb cracks a whole lot, so maybe this would be cake for a good crack climber, so I'm not going to rate it up. Jam on Jam is a totally appropriate name. I climbed it without falls, but I used leg bars, arm bars, foot jams, hand jams, lay backs, anything I could. It was kind of fun, if you like pain (and my friends couldn't send it :)
We used our top rope from Turtle piss, which made for quite an angle on the belay rope; there are no anchors right at the top of this route.

Added: 2009-05-08

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Pinnacle Peak: Y- Crack Boulder

Corona Club Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: csanich on 2009-05-08 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Not today

We top roped this after climbing Turtle Piss. I've grunted, hang doged, sweated, and bled my way up a 5.9 on the P.P. granite before, but today I couldn't finish this one. The first half is super thin. A 5.9 on granite is harder than a 5.9 pocket climb (for me).

Added: 2009-05-08

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Pinnacle Peak: Y- Crack Boulder

turtle piss Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: csanich on 2009-05-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Back on the granite

The start feels like a 5.7, but that could be because I haven't been on this thin granite for a while. It was a good warm up. The first bolt is a little high.
We were on the rock by 7:30 and 90% of the route was already in the sun.

Added: 2009-05-08

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Camelback Mountain: Headwall

Donamatrix popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: csanich on 2009-04-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun

We did both pitches today. I'm not sure it's worth the hassle of doing the second pitch, since you have to belay from an uncomfortable ledge to bring the second up the first pitch, and all the rope handling. Plus, the second pitch is short and easier.
I still really like the first pitch though. It's high and sustained, lots of hold options.
I'd suggest using 15' slings to set up the top anchor if you don't want rope drag.
Wear your brain bucket on belay from below.

Added: 2009-04-24

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Camelback Mountain: Headwall

Rain of Terror Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: csanich on 2009-04-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Pride caused the fall

Super well bolted (only give it a PG13 because of loose rocks). The hangers at the top are rusty, but the bolts are new. I'd recommend like 15' slings for the top anchors to prevent drag.
Most of this route felt like a 5.7 today. And so I was trying to make moves harder and at the crux that proved to be a mistake. The crux has a couple 5.9 moves, which is about the limit of my ability, but I was still goofing around trying to make the moves harder and I fell. So much for a clean ascent. It was fun.
Last time I climbed this a huge foothold fell out, so I wasn't trusting my feet like I should this time.

Added: 2009-04-24

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Pond area

Nothing's Right Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: csanich on 2009-03-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Tough start

The start is not a 5.7. Maybe if your light and don't mind overhangs. After the start, yes, it's definitly a 5.7, minus even. My buddy did it on top rope with a hurt ankle. Some of the hand holds on this thing are really sharp, but you can climb the whole thing almost with your feet in pockets. It's kind of fun to have to pay attention to the curving line of the climb. Mid afternoon sun on this area was real hot, not much shade. There are some amazing views of spires and distant mountains to the west, on the way to this climb. It is right above the road, but the scene makes you forget about it.

Added: 2009-03-20

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Pond area

Safe Pool Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: csanich on 2009-03-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars As or more difficult than Dead Pool

My book and map call this a 5.7. It felt more like a 5.8, at least on lead, because it's so sustained. There are a couple moves toward the bottom that if you don't make them quickly you can get really pumped out, but it's relatively thin so moving quickly isn't easy. My buddy, who this should be well within his ability had to come down after 1/2 because he was too pumped out. I could have finished without my one rest hang, but I was pretty pumped out half way up and didn't know when a rest was coming and wanted to be safe on lead.

Added: 2009-03-20

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