Routes : Reviews
dead_milkman's Logbook (31 ascents)
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Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Calgary: Yamnuska: yam
The Bowl Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2009-06-30
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beats getting rained on
i would think about bringing a #5 camalot or equivalent, as well as one or two #4 and 2 #3, double #2 may be overkill, leave the really small stuff at home. be wary of rope drag traversing on the 5th pitch. some loose rock throughout.
Added: 2009-06-30
Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Oak Creek Canyon: Solar Slab Area
The Friar Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | R |
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Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2008-12-10
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i rate the spice: nutmeg.
with dow below... i think that a couple of nuts and double ropes prevent decking from the crux (but dow was probably in a better position to judge?)... large brass nuts may have been useful, who knows. my guidebook claims that there are two bolts after you traverse to the arete, but i only saw one, which either means i was already too high, or the guidebook is incorrect... all in all quite a fun little route, though i would recommend you not be pushing your abilities on the last pitch. excellent position!
Added: 2008-12-10
Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Oak Creek Canyon: Solar Slab Area
Solar Flare Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2008-12-08
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solar flare, mixed traditional
fun climbing through a couple of smaller-than-they-look roofs... both the 5.9 and 10c cruxes are protected by bolts; the traditionally protected climbing is no harder than 5.7
Added: 2008-12-10
Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Calgary: Yamnuska: yam
Excalibur Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2008-09-11
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hmm...
i just climbed the first pitch yesterday... discovered a core shot in one of the ropes and decided not to continue... but i have to wonder, "what ground fall?" there is a retrofitted bolt on the first pitch and the protection up to and after that point is mostly excellent, with a short run-out before and after the bolt. anyway... there is a loose block about 2/3 height in yellow rock... take care until it falls off... we had much luck in moving it, but were unable to complete the trundle mission. good pitch of climbing... looks like it keeps getting better.
went for round two may 9/09: thought the crux pitch was over-rated somewhat, though back in the day one could imagine being a little more gripped from lack of pro; my partner and i thought the route came in around 10a/b. there is no need whatsoever to bring anything larger than a blue (3") camalot, despite the guidebook claims. fun route, though perhaps some restraint could have been employed when retro-bolting this route, as the protection on everything but the crux pitch was quite good.
went for round two may 9/09: thought the crux pitch was over-rated somewhat, though back in the day one could imagine being a little more gripped from lack of pro; my partner and i thought the route came in around 10a/b. there is no need whatsoever to bring anything larger than a blue (3") camalot, despite the guidebook claims. fun route, though perhaps some restraint could have been employed when retro-bolting this route, as the protection on everything but the crux pitch was quite good.
Added: 2008-09-12
Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Canmore: CMC Valley: Ripple wall
The Maker Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | R |
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Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2008-08-14
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fun in the sun
small rack from tcu's to 2", double ropes very helpful for 2nd, there is a fixed pin at the base of the groove on pitch 4, which does not appear on the topo.
Added: 2008-08-18
Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Canmore: EEOR - Kanga: East end of Rundle
True Grit popular Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2008-07-21
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fun... ymmv
don't listen to all the whining about this route being polished... de nada.
fun climbing on water grooves... with only a couple odd bolt placements.
fun climbing on water grooves... with only a couple odd bolt placements.
Added: 2008-08-21
Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Calgary: Yamnuska: yam
Spring Fever Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2008-06-20
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shit show followed by cruising
we... and by we, i mean kev, decided to do the first pitch, which trends left up a roof provided by mcconnel's fault itself. the rock on the pitch is a little atrocious and i found the climbing to be difficult by A.G.'s "11a" standards, but after i got smacked around a bit on the ground, kev got his rage on and we got up this stupid thing. the rest of the climb is quite nice, though a bit of a bolt ladder over sections. and it seems odd to be that the climb was heavily retrofitted above the first pitch, but it appears no effort to clean rock or replace fixed gear was made on the first pitch.
Added: 2009-01-23
Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Calgary: Kid Goat: Kid Goat Center
Highlight Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2007-09-13
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bring your crowbar...
what an excellent climb... however... it would be much better were if left in something resembling its original character by local guides cum retrobolters. protection used to be somewhat mind-blowing, but now it is bolts, bolts and more bolts. several bolts should be removed, including one less than two feet from an excellent 1/2" crack and a duplicate anchor ca. 4 feet from the third belay. the "5.4" scramble up to the first belay has had two completely ridiculous bolts added, as well. well worth doing... a crying shame that this excellent route has been brought down to the lowest common denominator.
Added: 2007-09-13
Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Calgary: Prairie Creek: Le Secteur Bumbly
Bombus Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Red Point ascent by: dead_milkman on 2005-07-18
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2005-07-18
Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Calgary: Prairie Creek: Petra
Babe Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Red Point ascent by: dead_milkman on 2005-07-18
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Ascent Note
Nice climb... obvious moves to large pockets.
Added: 2005-07-18