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dead_milkman's Logbook (31 ascents)

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Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Calgary: Yamnuska: yam

The Bowl Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2009-06-30 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars beats getting rained on

i would think about bringing a #5 camalot or equivalent, as well as one or two #4 and 2 #3, double #2 may be overkill, leave the really small stuff at home. be wary of rope drag traversing on the 5th pitch. some loose rock throughout.

Added: 2009-06-30

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Oak Creek Canyon: Solar Slab Area

The Friar Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2008-12-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars i rate the spice: nutmeg.

with dow below... i think that a couple of nuts and double ropes prevent decking from the crux (but dow was probably in a better position to judge?)... large brass nuts may have been useful, who knows. my guidebook claims that there are two bolts after you traverse to the arete, but i only saw one, which either means i was already too high, or the guidebook is incorrect... all in all quite a fun little route, though i would recommend you not be pushing your abilities on the last pitch. excellent position!

Added: 2008-12-10

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Oak Creek Canyon: Solar Slab Area

Solar Flare Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2008-12-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars solar flare, mixed traditional

fun climbing through a couple of smaller-than-they-look roofs... both the 5.9 and 10c cruxes are protected by bolts; the traditionally protected climbing is no harder than 5.7

Added: 2008-12-10

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Calgary: Yamnuska: yam

Excalibur Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2008-09-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars hmm...

i just climbed the first pitch yesterday... discovered a core shot in one of the ropes and decided not to continue... but i have to wonder, "what ground fall?" there is a retrofitted bolt on the first pitch and the protection up to and after that point is mostly excellent, with a short run-out before and after the bolt. anyway... there is a loose block about 2/3 height in yellow rock... take care until it falls off... we had much luck in moving it, but were unable to complete the trundle mission. good pitch of climbing... looks like it keeps getting better.

went for round two may 9/09: thought the crux pitch was over-rated somewhat, though back in the day one could imagine being a little more gripped from lack of pro; my partner and i thought the route came in around 10a/b. there is no need whatsoever to bring anything larger than a blue (3") camalot, despite the guidebook claims. fun route, though perhaps some restraint could have been employed when retro-bolting this route, as the protection on everything but the crux pitch was quite good.

Added: 2008-09-12

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Canmore: CMC Valley: Ripple wall

The Maker Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2008-08-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fun in the sun

small rack from tcu's to 2", double ropes very helpful for 2nd, there is a fixed pin at the base of the groove on pitch 4, which does not appear on the topo.

Added: 2008-08-18

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Canmore: EEOR - Kanga: East end of Rundle

True Grit popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2008-07-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars fun... ymmv

don't listen to all the whining about this route being polished... de nada.

fun climbing on water grooves... with only a couple odd bolt placements.

Added: 2008-08-21

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Calgary: Yamnuska: yam

Spring Fever Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2008-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars shit show followed by cruising

we... and by we, i mean kev, decided to do the first pitch, which trends left up a roof provided by mcconnel's fault itself. the rock on the pitch is a little atrocious and i found the climbing to be difficult by A.G.'s "11a" standards, but after i got smacked around a bit on the ground, kev got his rage on and we got up this stupid thing. the rest of the climb is quite nice, though a bit of a bolt ladder over sections. and it seems odd to be that the climb was heavily retrofitted above the first pitch, but it appears no effort to clean rock or replace fixed gear was made on the first pitch.

Added: 2009-01-23

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Calgary: Kid Goat: Kid Goat Center

Highlight Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2007-09-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars bring your crowbar...

what an excellent climb... however... it would be much better were if left in something resembling its original character by local guides cum retrobolters. protection used to be somewhat mind-blowing, but now it is bolts, bolts and more bolts. several bolts should be removed, including one less than two feet from an excellent 1/2" crack and a duplicate anchor ca. 4 feet from the third belay. the "5.4" scramble up to the first belay has had two completely ridiculous bolts added, as well. well worth doing... a crying shame that this excellent route has been brought down to the lowest common denominator.

Added: 2007-09-13

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Calgary: Prairie Creek: Le Secteur Bumbly

Bombus Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: dead_milkman on 2005-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-07-18

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Calgary: Prairie Creek: Petra

Babe Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: dead_milkman on 2005-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Nice climb... obvious moves to large pockets.

Added: 2005-07-18

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