Routes : Reviews
dowww's Logbook (600 ascents)
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Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Zion National Park: Tunnel Crags
Ashtar Command popular Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2005-10-11
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Ashtar Command
Met another party doing Feeling Minnesota next to us and it included the legendary Fred Becky. Although my brother in law has been out with him, I had never met him before. Interesting old chap, a little on the grouchy side, but then his party was kind of slow and awkward getting up Feeling Minnesota. He never really climbed all day, just watched us get into trouble. I think we entertained him. When our epic was done, he wanted to leave. Part of October 2005 climbing tour with Chris and Zach. Thanks guys!
Added: 2007-06-11
Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Zion National Park: Cerebrus Gendarme
Tales of Flails Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-03-11
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Tails of Flails
Tails of Flails, 5.9/ 100’- Excellent fun overhanging crack lead. Start up chimney to jamming thin hand to finger crack with good gear placements up black dihedral to chains. Continue past three bolts (5.10a) to another anchor (130’ total) if you don’t mind two raps or have double ropes.
Cerberus Gendarme, Zion National Park, March, 2007
Cerberus Gendarme, Zion National Park, March, 2007
Added: 2007-06-11
Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Zion National Park: Cerebrus Gendarme
Cave Route popular Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-05-11
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Cave Route
The Cave Route is classic (as seen in the Eiger Sanction). I have led it several times. First time I thought nothing of it even though I was told it was sandbagged a little. The 2nd time I was with a relatively new climber, and since falling was not an option, I actually understand where the "sandbagging" factors in via that circumstance. Once you unlock that perpendicular crack on the steep section, it goes like clock work. Need your #4 somewhere on the way up as I recall. You can rap the route vs walking off as the guide book suggests.
Added: 2007-06-11
Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Juniper Canyon: Cloud Tower
Crimson Chrysalis popular Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-04-21
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Crimson Chrysalis
Finally climbed in Red Rocks, first time....did Dark Shadows Friday afternoon and Crimson yesterday....had Crimson Chrysalis to ourselves yesterday, never saw another soul, kind of shocked...even got a late start out of the campground....think it was too cold for most of the others...there were 4 parties ahead of us on Dark Shadows Fri though....not for Dow....not the serenity I am used to in the Canadian Rockies...It was windy so the descent off of Crimson was a pain....but well worth it, nice and sustained the whole way...Radek's notes are beyond the norm, better than any guidebook. (Chris's (SuperTopo) topo is on target except for pitch 3, shorter than 100') I agree with about everything Radek describes including the 4th pitch being the best, etc. Some of those later pitches are a little run out...I think Radek said of pitch 8, "questionable pro" when faced with that flaring crack...I would go so far to say no pro and just ran it out. Wind will play havoc on your ropes. This is always a windy area, one of the reasons the sandstone is actually better here, due to wind erosion/compaction....very judicious rope handling to say the least, spending a night at this elevation can be a lot colder than you think....cheers
Added: 2007-06-10
Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Snow Canyon: Sand Dunes
Full Metal Jockstap 5.10a R Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | R |
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Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-04-01
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Full Metal Jockstrap
Spent three straight weekends with Carsten from Germany, this was one of them. I took a nasty lead fall on Battle of Wills later in the day and ripped one of his brand new 8.1mm Iceline Beals....all this after he bought them because he saw me using them, not realizing I was really just doing it to get new ice ropes next season. Oh well. Super day otherwise, cloud cover made it perfect, tagged Stepping Out's 4 pitches as well.
Added: 2007-06-10
Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Zion National Park: Tunnel Crags
The Headache Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-06-07
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Headache
Just came off the Headache, that is sustained. Very nice line. I thought the 5.10 third pitch was easier than the 1st pitch, but then I am not much of a crack climber. But that does echo some others comments at mountainproject.com. All the visits into Zion, just had not done this yet. That last pitch does eat up gear. We took and used 5-#2's and found use for a #4 at least once. Probably had our photo taken over 300 times. The buses must communicate to each other or something regarding this route since there is a pullout in each direction. This is a horrible line in terms of privacy. Take a piss though and they start to scramble away. Another day, another dollar.
Added: 2007-06-10
Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Zion National Park: THE SPEARHEAD
IRON MESSIAH III 5.10 Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-06-01
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Iron Messiah
Way to hot, but what the hell, literally! A classic, really enjoyed it, but I love dihedrals, chimneys and the like, particularly when it is hot. We combined 1 and 2; 7 and 8. Makes a lot of sense. Route goes relatively fast. Watch for that "out of order" rap station that saves you a rap in my descent notes. Super day on the rock switching leads with Zach, as always.
Added: 2007-06-10
Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: The Ghost: Ghost River Valley: South Ghost
Rainbow Serpent Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | WI6 |
Safety Rating | R |
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Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-01-09
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Rainbow Serpent
Good times with Lynette and Adam. Lynette is a monster! Live for days like this, thanks guys..... On Jan 9, both routes were in (Fearful Symmetry). Some of these photos were from the team across from us climbing Fearful at the same time. Cheers.
Added: 2007-03-22
Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: The Ghost: Ghost River Valley: Valley of the Birds
Yellow Bird Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | WI4 |
Safety Rating | R |
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Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-03-01
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Yellow Bird
Did Yellow Bird, Seagull and Eagle in early March, 2007. Albatross out of shape, not worth it anyway, did not check out the Raven. The Eagle, WI 5 is the classic, but Yellow Bird was a challenging WI 4, Seagull is more like a WI 3+ if you ask me.
Added: 2007-03-22
Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: The Ghost: Ghost River Valley: Valley of the Birds
Eagle Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | WI5 |
Safety Rating | R |
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Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-03-01
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Eagle
One week, six routes, Adam and I trying to squeeze in as much fun as possible before I hit Zion for a few months... This route was one of the highlights, actually looks like an Eagle, kind of cool.
Added: 2007-03-21