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dowww's Logbook (600 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Zion National Park: Tunnel Crags

Ashtar Command popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2005-10-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ashtar Command

Met another party doing Feeling Minnesota next to us and it included the legendary Fred Becky. Although my brother in law has been out with him, I had never met him before. Interesting old chap, a little on the grouchy side, but then his party was kind of slow and awkward getting up Feeling Minnesota. He never really climbed all day, just watched us get into trouble. I think we entertained him. When our epic was done, he wanted to leave. Part of October 2005 climbing tour with Chris and Zach. Thanks guys!

Added: 2007-06-11

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Zion National Park: Cerebrus Gendarme

Tales of Flails Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-03-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Tails of Flails

Tails of Flails, 5.9/ 100’- Excellent fun overhanging crack lead. Start up chimney to jamming thin hand to finger crack with good gear placements up black dihedral to chains. Continue past three bolts (5.10a) to another anchor (130’ total) if you don’t mind two raps or have double ropes.
Cerberus Gendarme, Zion National Park, March, 2007

Added: 2007-06-11

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Zion National Park: Cerebrus Gendarme

Cave Route popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-05-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Cave Route

The Cave Route is classic (as seen in the Eiger Sanction). I have led it several times. First time I thought nothing of it even though I was told it was sandbagged a little. The 2nd time I was with a relatively new climber, and since falling was not an option, I actually understand where the "sandbagging" factors in via that circumstance. Once you unlock that perpendicular crack on the steep section, it goes like clock work. Need your #4 somewhere on the way up as I recall. You can rap the route vs walking off as the guide book suggests.

Added: 2007-06-11

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Juniper Canyon: Cloud Tower

Crimson Chrysalis popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-04-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Crimson Chrysalis

Finally climbed in Red Rocks, first time....did Dark Shadows Friday afternoon and Crimson yesterday....had Crimson Chrysalis to ourselves yesterday, never saw another soul, kind of shocked...even got a late start out of the campground....think it was too cold for most of the others...there were 4 parties ahead of us on Dark Shadows Fri though....not for Dow....not the serenity I am used to in the Canadian Rockies...It was windy so the descent off of Crimson was a pain....but well worth it, nice and sustained the whole way...Radek's notes are beyond the norm, better than any guidebook. (Chris's (SuperTopo) topo is on target except for pitch 3, shorter than 100') I agree with about everything Radek describes including the 4th pitch being the best, etc. Some of those later pitches are a little run out...I think Radek said of pitch 8, "questionable pro" when faced with that flaring crack...I would go so far to say no pro and just ran it out. Wind will play havoc on your ropes. This is always a windy area, one of the reasons the sandstone is actually better here, due to wind erosion/compaction....very judicious rope handling to say the least, spending a night at this elevation can be a lot colder than you think....cheers

Added: 2007-06-10

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Snow Canyon: Sand Dunes

Full Metal Jockstap 5.10a R Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-04-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Full Metal Jockstrap

Spent three straight weekends with Carsten from Germany, this was one of them. I took a nasty lead fall on Battle of Wills later in the day and ripped one of his brand new 8.1mm Iceline Beals....all this after he bought them because he saw me using them, not realizing I was really just doing it to get new ice ropes next season. Oh well. Super day otherwise, cloud cover made it perfect, tagged Stepping Out's 4 pitches as well.

Added: 2007-06-10

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Zion National Park: Tunnel Crags

The Headache Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Headache

Just came off the Headache, that is sustained. Very nice line. I thought the 5.10 third pitch was easier than the 1st pitch, but then I am not much of a crack climber. But that does echo some others comments at mountainproject.com. All the visits into Zion, just had not done this yet. That last pitch does eat up gear. We took and used 5-#2's and found use for a #4 at least once. Probably had our photo taken over 300 times. The buses must communicate to each other or something regarding this route since there is a pullout in each direction. This is a horrible line in terms of privacy. Take a piss though and they start to scramble away. Another day, another dollar.

Added: 2007-06-10

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Zion National Park: THE SPEARHEAD

IRON MESSIAH III 5.10 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Iron Messiah

Way to hot, but what the hell, literally! A classic, really enjoyed it, but I love dihedrals, chimneys and the like, particularly when it is hot. We combined 1 and 2; 7 and 8. Makes a lot of sense. Route goes relatively fast. Watch for that "out of order" rap station that saves you a rap in my descent notes. Super day on the rock switching leads with Zach, as always.

Added: 2007-06-10

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: The Ghost: Ghost River Valley: South Ghost

Rainbow Serpent Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty WI6
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-01-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Rainbow Serpent

Good times with Lynette and Adam. Lynette is a monster! Live for days like this, thanks guys..... On Jan 9, both routes were in (Fearful Symmetry). Some of these photos were from the team across from us climbing Fearful at the same time. Cheers.

Added: 2007-03-22

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: The Ghost: Ghost River Valley: Valley of the Birds

Yellow Bird Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty WI4
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Yellow Bird

Did Yellow Bird, Seagull and Eagle in early March, 2007. Albatross out of shape, not worth it anyway, did not check out the Raven. The Eagle, WI 5 is the classic, but Yellow Bird was a challenging WI 4, Seagull is more like a WI 3+ if you ask me.

Added: 2007-03-22

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: The Ghost: Ghost River Valley: Valley of the Birds

Eagle Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty WI5
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Eagle

One week, six routes, Adam and I trying to squeeze in as much fun as possible before I hit Zion for a few months... This route was one of the highlights, actually looks like an Eagle, kind of cool.

Added: 2007-03-21

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