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earlethesquirrel's Logbook (82 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (2)



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Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Northern Colorado: Lumpy Ridge: Sundance Buttress

Mainliner Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2012-06-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Those damn ground squirrels!

I did this one with "Twinkle Toes" Tom R. We alternated leads with the first pitch going to him. Overall, this is 5.fun climbing. The only tricky part was figuring out the stem box. Everything else was fun and non-threatening. Tons of stopper placements. We skipped the first rappel on the saddle descent route. The down climbing was slightly sketchy. Otherwise no problem. I was happy to find my pb&j sandwich intact in my backpack...I had hung it from the dead tree at the base!

Added: 2012-06-08

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Pine Creek Canyon: Brass Wall

Bush Pilots Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2011-02-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sparse pro in the middle

Did this one to warm up for Mushroom People. Put in a green alien right away under the roof. Stemmed across to a vertical edge and felt for the next good holds. Had a painful pinch on my left foot and came off. Got back on and sent the rest cleanly. Felt a little nervous about rappelling off a nest of slings that were around two small trees. One was dead and the other green.

Added: 2011-02-11

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Calico Basin: Cannibal Crag

What's Eating You? Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2011-02-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Strange protection options.

Did this climb as a warm-up and warm-down @ Cannibal. Fun moves to a solid rappel station.

Added: 2011-02-11

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Calico Basin: Cannibal Crag

Have a Beer with Fear Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2011-02-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Weird contortions required

First bolt is pretty high off the deck. Second bolt takes some slithering around and up the first obstacle. After this, I clipped a draw to the third bolt but was too pumped to clip the rope. Fell, climbed the overhang and headed left to the anchors.

Added: 2011-02-11

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Calico Basin: Cannibal Crag

baseboy direct Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2011-02-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Reach crux move

Cruised to around 40' with no problems on small positive edges. Got to the crux moves and didn't make the reach/smear high enough. French-freed the crux and sent the rest clean.

Added: 2011-02-11

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Calico Basin: Cannibal Crag

Caustic popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2011-02-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good short blast!

Wanted to climb this line after seeing a photo in a rock-climbing picture book by Simon Carter. I warmed up on a climb around the corner. Should have done a couple more TR laps to get more warmed up. Made it to the third bolt and felt a flash pump coming on. Botched a hand sequence but held on through the crimpy crux to clip the anchors!

Added: 2011-02-11

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: SandStone Quarry: Wake Up Wall

XTZ Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2011-01-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Warm up/down climb

This line is slopey and awkward. I felt somewhat insecure even on top-rope.

Added: 2011-01-29

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: SandStone Quarry: Wake Up Wall

Just Shut Up And Climb Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2011-01-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Do this climb!

After many laps on slightly easier climbs, I decided that I was ready to onsight this one. Climbed up smoothly to the rest cave two-thirds of the way up. Somehow groveled out and up on thin holds. Cold rock completely numbed my hands. Big jug in crack near top affords rest.

Added: 2011-01-29

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: SandStone Quarry: Wake Up Wall

Mic's Master Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2011-01-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Warm down climb

Climbed this cool line after much mileage on .10+/11- lines that day. Tricky feet down low when gaining the arÍte. Great big holds to the chains.

Added: 2011-01-29

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Second Pullout: Gallery

Range of Motion Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2011-01-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Crimping craziness

Felt like I had it in the bag from the initial scoping. Tons of pre-existing chalk make it easy to see the moves from the ground. Climbed up to the first bolt and clipped in. Went for the next slippery rail and came off. Good old factor two fall on a brand new rope. Sent on the next go. Handren guide says four bolts but I think there are five.

Added: 2011-01-29

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