elvislegs's Logbook (214 ascents)

Great to finally have success on this thing! Great, great route. Lots of snow as of 10/17/09. Got into snow fairly low on the approach, and climbed through between 6" and 18" of snow in various states of consolidation throughout the route and descent. We soloed neve, easy alpine ice, and snow covered choss up to the exit couloir. Couloir had a little ice, but it was pretty thin and brittle. 1-2" dinner plates on top of broken limestone. Dusty lead the final pitch slinging blocks and pounding two good knife-blades. Descent was an exhausting, wet, snow slog. Post-holing down the steeper slopes and climbing carefully on rock and snow across chickenout. 16 hours car to car. Very long day. Wish I had brought a lightweight stove and pot to brew up. My bottles were dry by the time we topped out.

going car to car makes for a very long day.

very enjoyable route. for the full value stay directly on the bolt line. if you do it right, it is certainly 5.9 for pitches 5 and 6. easier variations abound.

super fun sport route.

a sporty little sport climb.

really fun route. i think it was probably bolted with the intent of stick clipping the first bolt, since the crux is before the first bolt.

i did this once during the time i was working the direct variation.

this thing is pumpy. the crux sequence starts at the third bolt and is like 12 moves long, to the chains. clipping bolt no. 4 is tricky.
i fell several times on the very last move. chains in front of my nose, pumping out, greasing off the holds, then falling, watching the chains move away from me faster and faster. glad to have this one under my belt so i can move on.

i think clipping the second bolt is the true crux on this thing. there is a good stance but it took me way too long to figure it out. lame. fun just the same.

most of the climbing is relatively easy. it gets harder at the third bolt, and the last move is somewhat committing and difficult. very enjoyable route.