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emloughl's Logbook (2 ascents)

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Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Canmore: Grassi Lakes: Hermit Wall

Mr. Manners Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: emloughl on 2014-05-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Mind your manners

Super fun, clean moves, very nice flow.

Easy most of the way, apparently the crux was near the anchors but large positive holds pretty much the whole way, just make sure you're looking out for them.

Kind of scary clipping 4th bolt (after you get up on the ledge)


Added: 2014-05-27

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Canmore: Grassi Lakes: Meathooks

Meathooks Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: emloughl on 2014-05-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Near-ground fall from 4th bolt. Caution: Loose rock! Wear your helmets, folks.

Just a testament to Grassi Lake's poor limestone rock quality. Meathooks is a wicked-fun classic overhanging route. But know that this kind of limestone takes its unique shape from years of freeze-thaw, water seepage and erosion.

My experience: I was warming up on this classic, and just clipping the 4th bolt. Normally I clip when the bolt's closer to my harness, but since I gripped a massive jug with my right hand I figured that it wouldn't hurt to reach up and clip into it. Just after I pulled a bunch of rope to make the clip, that massive hold (polished and chalked from years of use) made a sandy crunch noise and the toaster-sized rock pulled right off the wall, landing a couple meters away from my belayer, just as I tucked my legs and my ass was inches away from slamming into the ground. Good catch!

Just sharing my experience so others know to be cautious - the rock feels solid, but it will eventually pull. Use your judgement, and wear your helmets.

Added: 2014-05-20