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epic_ed's Logbook (1 ascent)
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Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Zion National Park: Leaning Wall
Spaceshot popular Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Safety Rating | G |
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Solo ascent by: epic_ed on 2005-05-30
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
Soloed this over Memorial Day weekend. Got a later-than-should-have start on Sunday. Fixed the first pitch and realized I forgot any cams larger than a #3 BD Camalot back in the 4Runner. Took the long bus ride back to get them and got back on the route. I hate pitch two. Fucking hate it. I lead it free when we were there in April and it wasn't bad, but I wasn't comfortable paying out slack on the gri gri and trying to free it solo (yeah, I suck), so I decided to aid it.
Let's just say it was a bad decision. I finished just as the last bus was passing by. So, since I wasn't going to be heading back to camp I decided to fix the third pitch, too. I caught some restless sleep on the ledge for a few hours and rapped to catch the first bus the next morning.
A few more hours of on/off sleep in the vehicle and I headed back to finish it up. After jugging the lines back to the top of P3 I was feeling the effects of several days of little sleep and napped until the sun went behind canyon wall, and I started the long night of climbing. After paying the price of slogging through the first three pitches, the rest of the climb was down right fun. That pin scar in the middle of P5 is fucking worthless. I got an HB offset nut to stick long enough to move up two steps and get in another nut. It blew as I was clipping the next nut. The fall would have been absolutely trivial, but the problem is every party that tries to place a workable piece of gear there is making it worse. My blown offset may be the last piece of gear that ever fits in that spot, and I just carved it out and made it worse. I wished I had a couple of more #2 & #3 Camalots on the next pitches, but it was dark so I think the magnitude of the run out was mitigated a little. A quick nap on Earth Orbit Ledge and I finished off the last pitch just before sunrise. Finished cleaning it around 5:30am. I had enough daylight to find the rap at that point and I was on the ground by 6:30 or so. I saw no one else climbing the entire weekend. Kinda spooky -- the weather was a little warm, but not that bad.
Nice route, Ron. As shitty as the first three pitches are, the pay off is well worth it with the final five. A couple of the pins on that final ladder above the arch are getting sketchy and one has already failed. I used a short cheat stick to get past it.
Let's just say it was a bad decision. I finished just as the last bus was passing by. So, since I wasn't going to be heading back to camp I decided to fix the third pitch, too. I caught some restless sleep on the ledge for a few hours and rapped to catch the first bus the next morning.
A few more hours of on/off sleep in the vehicle and I headed back to finish it up. After jugging the lines back to the top of P3 I was feeling the effects of several days of little sleep and napped until the sun went behind canyon wall, and I started the long night of climbing. After paying the price of slogging through the first three pitches, the rest of the climb was down right fun. That pin scar in the middle of P5 is fucking worthless. I got an HB offset nut to stick long enough to move up two steps and get in another nut. It blew as I was clipping the next nut. The fall would have been absolutely trivial, but the problem is every party that tries to place a workable piece of gear there is making it worse. My blown offset may be the last piece of gear that ever fits in that spot, and I just carved it out and made it worse. I wished I had a couple of more #2 & #3 Camalots on the next pitches, but it was dark so I think the magnitude of the run out was mitigated a little. A quick nap on Earth Orbit Ledge and I finished off the last pitch just before sunrise. Finished cleaning it around 5:30am. I had enough daylight to find the rap at that point and I was on the ground by 6:30 or so. I saw no one else climbing the entire weekend. Kinda spooky -- the weather was a little warm, but not that bad.
Nice route, Ron. As shitty as the first three pitches are, the pay off is well worth it with the final five. A couple of the pins on that final ladder above the arch are getting sketchy and one has already failed. I used a short cheat stick to get past it.
Added: 2005-05-30