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fluxus's Logbook (156 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (6)



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Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Right of the Roof

Double Whammy Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fluxus on 2010-06-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars not bad

nice long route, good for laps if you skip the rests. Starting on the route to the left of Whammy is the way to go.

Added: 2010-06-25

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Right of the Roof

Redrum Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fluxus on 2009-12-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars good lap route

The moves are good and its a pretty good lap route. The only oddity about the route is that is has a fairly easy no hands rest right in the middle of the crux. That being said the route flows nicely without the rest, and it should be avoided for training purposes.

Added: 2009-12-07

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: New Jack City: TWIN TOWERS

Nightstick Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fluxus on 2009-11-20 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars enjoyable

A good route, with entertaining movement. I just wish the crux was not over so quickly

Added: 2009-11-23

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: Holcomb Valley Pinnacles: Doc Holiday Wall

Pistol Pete Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fluxus on 2009-09-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good for the area

this is a straight forward, about vertical face climb on good quality rock. Nothing amazing about, nothing terrible either. worth doing.

Added: 2009-09-10

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: Holcomb Valley Pinnacles: Doc Holiday Wall

Unforgiven Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fluxus on 2009-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars 2 move wonder

As is typical of HVP the crux is super short and the rest of the climb is pretty basic. I did enjoy the climb, just wish it was more continuous.

Added: 2009-09-10

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: Holcomb Valley Pinnacles: Claimjumper Wall

Colonial Ear Wax Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fluxus on 2009-09-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good warm up

You can basically go up this section of rock any way you please, there are lots of holds and endless variations. Its another route rated 5.10a that is more like 5.8. In order to be 5.10 there needs to be move or some kind of fairly specific sequence, something this route lacks. Do it as a warm up and enjoy.

Added: 2009-09-10

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: Holcomb Valley Pinnacles: Claimjumper Wall

The Papper Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fluxus on 2009-09-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Short but good

Despite its length I found this to be the most engaging route on the wall, good rock quality, fun moves and a good crux. Its the kind of route that 5.10 climbers may think is a little hard for the grade because the crux is a little more technical then they are use to. Be that as it may 5.10b seems like a fair grade.

Added: 2009-09-10

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: Holcomb Valley Pinnacles: Claimjumper Wall

Claim Jumper Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fluxus on 2009-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars The easiest 10a in the world

Its hard to imagine how this route has the grade it does. I enjoyed it, its long and playful, but its more accurately graded at 5.8.

Added: 2009-09-10

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: Holcomb Valley Pinnacles: Claimjumper Wall

Coyotes In the Hen House Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fluxus on 2009-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars so-so

The route does not live up to the hype. its basically enjoyable but its a series of giant hollow flakes, which takes some of the fun out. Like many routes here the crux is very short and most of the climb is rather easy.

Added: 2009-09-10

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: Holcomb Valley Pinnacles: Claimjumper Wall

Public Hanging Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fluxus on 2009-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Not much to it

Overall this is not a great route, it has one interesting move and the rest is either very easy or sharp crimping. The route does have two poorly placed bolts though. It seems that the folks who bolted many of the routes in this area have, shall we say, "creative" ideas about where bolts should be placed. It does tell us something about HVP that this route gets a lot of stars. In HVP it is a good route, but anywhere else in the world it would get 2 starts at best.

Added: 2009-09-10

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