freudian's Logbook (7 ascents)

Great route. one of my 1st 5.8 trad leads. Everyone should lead this route. I led it the frist time I tried to lead it. I have previoulsy top roped it 2-3 times years ago. The whole thing is 5.8. It's a lot easier on top rope than trad lead.

Great beginner lead route. No run outs and you can always sling trees if you don't have the right size nuts or cams.

Hard route, fun, good pro.

- I enjoyed the route
- I recommend the route to others
- It took me many tries, as I was working up to 5.10, but this was my first attempt that day and i climbed it properly and without fault.
- The crux is at the top near the last bolt.
- This is my personal experience. Adam Morgan (neadamthal) is my witness.

This is a classic trad style route. Many climbers have made this their first lead route. I think everyone would enjoy this route, even those of you pulling 5.11/5.12 grades. It's nice to take it easy once in a while. Very nice pro placements, not to exposed, a few trees that could be slung if you need to feel safer on your first lead. This was one of my first climbs on top-rope and was the 2nd outdoor trad lead route I ever did. I don't really think there's a crux on this route. Most of its prtty easy and about the same difficulty, depending on your experience.
Basically, this is a left-going flake/crack type route. You'll use medium nuts (#5-#10 depending on the climber) and could use a cam and a tree or two to be slung with 240cm draw (2x120) and a locking biner.
The rappel is easy. There are many trees to use as well as a nice new rappel station at the top installed in fall 2002 by Ulysse Richard.

I enjoyed this route the first time I did it in 2001. In 2002, It was one of the first climbs I did during the season, and It was very difficult because it was totally wet on all the hard parts except the crux. I recommend it to others. It is very fun, and one of the hardest 5.6's I've ever done. I always get this on the first try. This years acent, I didn't dog the rope. The crux really isn't all that hard, unless its wet and you're tired.

This is a fairly difficult route for a begineer. 5.8 is nothing to snease at if you are physically weak and in your first year climbing, as i was when I first top-roped this sucker.
I most recently climbed this route in summer 2002. A few years after my initial ascent of Fern Gully.
My most recent ascent went much better. Its a solid 5.8 route. Small holds with some awkward positions and moments. Don't go into the trees, or your off the route. Watch out for bees. I plan on leading this route in spring 2003, as I'll have lead gear and some bigger balls by then... not to mention moer experience climbing in general, plus leading.
ENJOY. Its a great route with easy top-access if you are wanting to top-rope it without having a leader to set it for you.