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fubar's Logbook (78 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Tahquitz Rock: West Face

Bedrock Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2007-10-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun but not a classic

Bolted slab climbing reminiscent of Suicide's Sunshine Face, though not as cool. Weird ending--not intuitive at all.

Added: 2007-10-26

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Tahquitz Rock: West Face

Fred Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2006-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Harder for tall people

Well, maybe. It's easier to get the good edge before the first bolt, but harder for us to mantle. If you don't own any really small cams, this becomes a much scarier climb--micronuts just don't cut it here.

Added: 2007-10-26

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Tahquitz Rock: West Face Bulge

The Vampire popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2007-10-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Watch for Swallows!

We did this route in late afternoon, and on the second pitch the swallows began coming home to nest, diving in between my hands into the crack. More disconcerting than scary.

Added: 2007-10-26

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Suicide Rock: South Face

Disco Jesus Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2007-10-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Too tempting to aid?

Fun first pitch, though short. The belay is obviously situated so that you can use it for aid if need be. Rated 11b in the guidebook, feels at least 11d, though not for long. Painful. Cool part of Suicide, with more of a valley view.

Added: 2007-10-26

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Suicide Rock: Sunshine Face

Valhalla Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2007-10-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Best route at Suicide?

Don't forget long slings for tie-offs and drag management.

Added: 2007-10-26

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Suicide Rock: Sunshine Face

Sundance Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2007-10-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars required climbing

Classic! Do all the variations of the third pitch. A 70M rope gets you down in 3 raps.

Added: 2007-10-26

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2007-10-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars required climbing

Classic! Do all the variations of the third pitch. A 70M rope gets you down in 3 raps.

Added: 2007-10-26

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Suicide Rock: Sunshine Face

Iron Cross Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fubar on 2007-10-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great but frightening route

The guidebook understates the runout on this climb: "Slightly difficult to protect" is putting it mildly. You might be able to get an offset alien in the pin scar before the crux, but that means you don't get to use it as a hold...In relation to other Idyllwild 5.11s, this is a definite notch up from Valhalla, Etude, or Fred at Tahquitz.

Added: 2007-10-26

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