happiegrrrl's Logbook (223 ascents)

My hardest lead to date, I guess. I tried this route a month or so ago, and Took at the crux, a mix of having screwed around too long and tired my arms, and failure to commit. But this time, I did much better, and though I did have an initial bit of "I wanna go home" fear before committing to the crux, I went for it. It was exhilarating to be climbing at my lead limit, pulling a strenuous(for me) multi-move crux sequence with gear getting further away at each move. I slotted a red Camalot under the roof as the last piece before doing the sequence, so the thought of a fall was uncomfortable. The first time, I did get a great nut placed so I could have TR for the crux, but of course had to place that piece while IN the crux moves. I was pleased that, even though I thought about doing it this time, I was like "No - just go." I did, however, have one disappointing moment when I yelled "Shut Up!" to my partner when he encouraged me as I was climbing through the crux. Sorry, Peter.

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Followed Peter.

Followed Peter.

Followed this once several years ago. It felt good to lead this classic JTree route. Frankly, not anything I could really call as a distinct crux section though.

Followed Peter. Quite nice climbing, but very easy at end. We walked off by heading to the left, and then downclimbing a short section(easy downclimb, but don't fall off as you could go for a loooong ride). There is a rap setup which leads close enough back to the base of routes. Rap, then walk back to the base, passing behind a tree, another 20 feet or so, and then a 6-8 foot drop which can be chinmeyed down. Didn't try the gully walk-off as shown in guidebook.

Followed Peter.

Led this a month ago, my first Jtree 5.6, and first lead here this season. Took at the crux, so came back to lead it clean. Followed by Peter(sans rope - grrrr)

Followed Peter

Followed Peter. Did the roof with minimal jamming.