heidimountaingirl's Logbook (2 ascents)

This route is extremely aesthetic- in fact, although it is not technically that difficult, it is probably my favourite in the alps so far. the granite is sticky and sweet, every move is fluid here- easy to protect and there is a bit of permanent pro where you might need a bit of help or are feeling a bit scared. The walk in was a breeze, and the route only took a few hours at a leisurely pace- true, there are a few 5+ french moves, but most sections are few and followed by something cruisy and pleasurable. There are a couple of "a cheval" moves, and a few downclimb of little spires that immediately after necessitated a sort of falling forward to "catch" the next wall, (If that makes any sense!) which was exciting but not hard. Some parts are exposed but reassuringly freindly, like the move just through the letterbox. we lowered off at the ab point just about 3/4 way up the peine I think, (you can continue up I think but it becomes much less technically interesting) down to a scramble above a glacier- the rimaye (bergschrund) was creepy and huge and very slippy walk out here but got easy in about 100 metres. I felt this climb was at its hardest about an english 5a or b (maybe a 5.9 US?) but only for a few moves, route finding is interesting, but all in all, this is such a beautiful route I urge everyone to try it as soon as they can. (In fact, I'm out there next week and its my first climb when I arrive!) If you're not a grade snob or a summit chaser (in which case, you are probably a bit annoying anyway), try this route out- it is so sweet and lovely! Heidi Mountain girl
PS- It's really not a TD as far as I'm concerned- easy to escape and route finding isnt that hard. I'd say about a D, given committment, tech difficulty, etc. but one would have to be a reasonably strong leader and experienced / intuitive route finder to lead this. x,HMG

If I remember the correct route-( I might be thinking of eddy which I think is just next to it) it is really cruisy until you get to the exciting wafer thin mantle at the top that looks like it will snap if you weight it but stayed put for me, and suddenly you're at the top with some big f-ing bat's nest or whatever by your head, but it is a really nice climb, as are all the ones there. HMG