interniq's Logbook (95 ascents)

I don’t know what possessed us to skip the 5.10 grade and jump in on a 5.11a. Perhaps it was because this route looked so easy last week, as we watched another party on it while we were on Airy Aria. After I got through the first overhang to where I could see much of the crux moves, I just wondered what I was thinking this morning. I rested there for what seemed like an hour, trying to plan out the next sequence of moves. Finally, I said "what the hell" and tried it. I traversed over and up, clipped the first bolt, and was pumped out. I had to hang. After another attempt, I figured out the proper sequence and was able to pull through. I got up to the big roof, and set up the hanging belay. By the time John got up there our feet were burning, and we were so spent that we decided to bail. So we traversed right and finished on Airy Aria. Now that I know what to expect, I think I can send this route on my next attempt.

Another stellar pitch. Once again I took my sweet time planning out the crux moves; surveying and then downclimbing to the stance and resting before my attempt. Wasn't as difficult as I expected, once I had actually done the moves. I thought Airy Aria was a more difficult route. Once again, John made me look really weenie by walking up this like it was a ladder. I wish for once he would at least make it look difficult.

Another fabulous climb. I somehow managed to get in adequate rest below the crux roof by downclimbing a bit, shuffling my feet a lot and hanging from one arm then the other. Then I just mustered up my nerve and blasted throught the crux. Second pitch (Gunk's Select guide) was kind of short - I think I'll link them next time. Note to self: next time bring #3.5 & #4 Camalots to protect the crux.

John did another nice job on this lead, although he did manage to take the hard route through the first pitch crux, which he made me follow. I also followed his moves on the second pitch crux, which for me was quite a bit easier than the way I had done it on lead. He used the bomber righ hand side pull. I had used a tiny left hand crimp, which may have been out of his reach. I guess his way is better for the shorter folk.

First pitch was kind of slimey today, but Charlie had no problem with it. He did take a whipper on the second pitch though, but got right back on and finished the route. I would have bailed after a fall like that. Catching his lead fall was scarier than taking one.

John's first 5.8 on lead. Took me three years to work up to 5.8; took John three months... guess I'm just a weenie. This is a very nice climb, and like Son of Easy O, the two pitches are completely different. The third pitch is covered with lichen and isn't worth doing, imho.

Move over, Son of Easy O... I have a new "new favorite!" I think the most fun I've had climbing. I still had a smile on my face when I went to bed. Also, my finest lead style-wise. No hesitation; no backing off the crux three times... just place pro and go!

Charlie got the first lead today and chose Arrow, a route I was more than happy to second, since I enjoyed it so much on lead. He made goog time on it too, and I only sensed a short hesitation as he worked out the second pitch crux. This time I found better feet on the overhang at the start of the second pitch, probably because I was more relaxed. The crux seemed harder today though....

If this is 5.8+ I wonder what 5.10 is like! Wow, I struggled on the crux of the first pitch, and seriously considered bailing, and rapping down from the pine tree. But we rested in the shade for a bit (another hot, humid day) and talked with the party on Annie Oh! for a bit, as some cloud cover rolled in. It was a lot cooler in the shade, so I decided to give it a go. All the moves from the bottom of the tiny left-facing corner through the traverse were of sustained difficulty, but with reasonably good stances. I found myself testing out the moves and backing off to the stance a few times on each move. I thank Charlie for his patience as I worked through this route. This was certainly my most difficult lead to date. This is a great little section of the cliff, with four 3-star routes, graded 5.7 through 5.8+, all in a row.

Finally got back to climb the second pitch. The first pitch seemed much easier today than last time, since the rock was dry! Second pitch was easier than I expected. This is a spectacular route, and I think it is my new favorite.