Routes : Reviews
jandj's Logbook (11 ascents)
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Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Sugarloaf: Split Rock
TriTip Split Roast Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2008-01-19
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Bound to be a classic.
Probably 150' long, and 5.9. Crux moves are on face in lower portion. The move across the Split is more intimidating than hard (5.7). Enjoyable and mixed climbing, a bit easy right at the top. Needs a few more ascents to get the remaining scruff off the rock.
Added: 2008-01-24
Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Tollhouse Rock: Beginner(Sunday) Slab
Center Crack Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2007-10-04
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It's a seam
Not a crack, but a seam in a rounded dihedral, with an occasional slot to place very small gear. The crux is passed on sloping "stairsteps" with only the possibility of a small piece of gear. The old bolt above the crux fortunately is only needed to protect a 5.4 traverse to the anchors. Not a beginner route.
Added: 2007-10-06
Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Tollhouse Rock: Beginner(Sunday) Slab
Directissima Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | X |
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Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2007-10-04
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Runout
50' to first bolt, including 5.7 friction, w/ poor stances to clip. Each succesive bolt is also runout. A fall 20' - 30' up on first pitch would likely be a death fall onto sharp rocks at bottom. Above belay anchors, there is 80' - 100' of unprotected runout, sometimes on moss and lichen. One can exit right most easily, or 5.8 corner to left.
Added: 2007-10-06
Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Tollhouse Rock: Beginner(Sunday) Slab
Sevy Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | X |
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Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2007-10-04
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Way runout!
Typical of Tollhouse climbing, this route is runout in all sections. 35' to first bolt,w/ serious injury or death fall possible onto sharp rocks at bottom. Long runout to 2nd bolt. Nice climbing in dihedral, but exit is 5.8. Not a beginner route.
Added: 2007-10-06
Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Lovers Leap: Hogsback
Hogwild Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | R |
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Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2007-07-17
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Intimidating
Very runout sections with, I think, two 5.8 moves. 60m rope will only get you to within 7m of the ground, but you can rap into gully to the right and descend stair steps
Added: 2007-07-18
Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Lovers Leap: Hogsback
It's Better With Bacon popular Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | R |
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Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2007-07-18
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Not for aspiring 5.8 leaders
Watch ready-to-fall rock balanced at top of P1 (or P2?). Runout start of P2 over roof, with 5.7 move (guide shows 5.6) to get to first bolt, 20' up, with serious injury or death fall onto the belay ledge.
Added: 2007-07-18
Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Lovers Leap: Hogsback
Accessory Dogs Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | R |
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Top Rope ascent by: jandj on 2007-07-17
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Fine rock!
Crux around/over the bulge is probably 10b and is unprotected and runout, with a scraping diagonal fall over sharp edged dikes. Don't forget gear for the "flake" section.
Added: 2007-07-18
Routes: North America: United States: California: Bishop and Eastern Sierra: Alabama Hills: Elephant Rock-Tower Of Pizza
Panzarotti Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | R |
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Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2007-05-14
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Probably under rated
Runout sections on rough rock. Be a solid 5.8 climber to lead this. Must step left onto a very small edge to clip the top anchors, when you are well above your last bolt. Contrary to guide, upper section is not "big holds".
Added: 2007-05-23
Routes: North America: United States: California: Bishop and Eastern Sierra: Alabama Hills: Shark's Fin, The
The Shark's Fin Arete Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | R |
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Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2007-05-13
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Hard 5.7
Runout on top over rough rock. Should be a solid 5.8 climber to lead this. The adjacent East Face route is nicer and better protected.
Added: 2007-05-23
Routes: North America: United States: California: Bishop and Eastern Sierra: Alabama Hills: Arizona Dome
Spot Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2007-05-11
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Sandbag?
A solid 5.10a/b move gets you past the 4th bolt, either on two little edges or by toeing into a very shallow "V". Otherwise great climbing on the best rock of the 'hills.
Added: 2007-05-23