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jandj's Logbook (11 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Sugarloaf: Split Rock

TriTip Split Roast Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2008-01-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Bound to be a classic.

Probably 150' long, and 5.9. Crux moves are on face in lower portion. The move across the Split is more intimidating than hard (5.7). Enjoyable and mixed climbing, a bit easy right at the top. Needs a few more ascents to get the remaining scruff off the rock.

Added: 2008-01-24

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Tollhouse Rock: Beginner(Sunday) Slab

Center Crack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2007-10-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars It's a seam

Not a crack, but a seam in a rounded dihedral, with an occasional slot to place very small gear. The crux is passed on sloping "stairsteps" with only the possibility of a small piece of gear. The old bolt above the crux fortunately is only needed to protect a 5.4 traverse to the anchors. Not a beginner route.

Added: 2007-10-06

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Tollhouse Rock: Beginner(Sunday) Slab

Directissima Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2007-10-04 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Runout

50' to first bolt, including 5.7 friction, w/ poor stances to clip. Each succesive bolt is also runout. A fall 20' - 30' up on first pitch would likely be a death fall onto sharp rocks at bottom. Above belay anchors, there is 80' - 100' of unprotected runout, sometimes on moss and lichen. One can exit right most easily, or 5.8 corner to left.

Added: 2007-10-06

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Tollhouse Rock: Beginner(Sunday) Slab

Sevy Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2007-10-04 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Way runout!

Typical of Tollhouse climbing, this route is runout in all sections. 35' to first bolt,w/ serious injury or death fall possible onto sharp rocks at bottom. Long runout to 2nd bolt. Nice climbing in dihedral, but exit is 5.8. Not a beginner route.

Added: 2007-10-06

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Lovers Leap: Hogsback

Hogwild Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2007-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Intimidating

Very runout sections with, I think, two 5.8 moves. 60m rope will only get you to within 7m of the ground, but you can rap into gully to the right and descend stair steps

Added: 2007-07-18

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Lovers Leap: Hogsback

It's Better With Bacon popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2007-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Not for aspiring 5.8 leaders

Watch ready-to-fall rock balanced at top of P1 (or P2?). Runout start of P2 over roof, with 5.7 move (guide shows 5.6) to get to first bolt, 20' up, with serious injury or death fall onto the belay ledge.

Added: 2007-07-18

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Lovers Leap: Hogsback

Accessory Dogs Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jandj on 2007-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fine rock!

Crux around/over the bulge is probably 10b and is unprotected and runout, with a scraping diagonal fall over sharp edged dikes. Don't forget gear for the "flake" section.

Added: 2007-07-18

Routes: North America: United States: California: Bishop and Eastern Sierra: Alabama Hills: Elephant Rock-Tower Of Pizza

Panzarotti Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2007-05-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Probably under rated

Runout sections on rough rock. Be a solid 5.8 climber to lead this. Must step left onto a very small edge to clip the top anchors, when you are well above your last bolt. Contrary to guide, upper section is not "big holds".

Added: 2007-05-23

Routes: North America: United States: California: Bishop and Eastern Sierra: Alabama Hills: Shark's Fin, The

The Shark's Fin Arete Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2007-05-13 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Hard 5.7

Runout on top over rough rock. Should be a solid 5.8 climber to lead this. The adjacent East Face route is nicer and better protected.

Added: 2007-05-23

Routes: North America: United States: California: Bishop and Eastern Sierra: Alabama Hills: Arizona Dome

Spot Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jandj on 2007-05-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sandbag?

A solid 5.10a/b move gets you past the 4th bolt, either on two little edges or by toeing into a very shallow "V". Otherwise great climbing on the best rock of the 'hills.

Added: 2007-05-23

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