jkdfjkdfjkdfjkd's Logbook (16 ascents)

If you pick the wrong line between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, you'll create another crux down low. I did, and fell off. ;-) Great route, and definitely the first one to do on Grey Wall.

The moves are straightforward, feet are good, and route is probably not 5.9 if you go left at all. There is one 5.9 move towards the top if you go straight up, but you can cheat it by zigging left. Great gear everywhere. Just fun, fun, fun.

I've done this on gear (thinnish placements at top) and using the bolt-o-rama that has been created for this route. Only way this is 10a is if you go directly up and pull the overhang at the top...which is more of a pump crux after the bolt sprint below. The moves are fun though...it is a fun route. Lots of people fall off the top move because the bottom is so much easier.

This is an interesting route, especially for the massive contingent of SE climbers who have not climbed cracks before (heh, heh, heh). Route is short (I only used 3 pieces)..but can be unnecessarily pumpy at the top crack if you go at it wrong (I did, fell once). Also? I didn't see any anchors at the top, and so had to traverse right to the top of "Cruise This" to get off. Really fun moves though, but lack of anchor at top was interesting on the slopers.

Watched a guy climb this with a broken wrist....he climbed basically one handed....so his partner had to take up the challenge and *he* climbed it one handed as well. That said, this is the perfect route for new climbers, and for new 5.8 leaders. The only "dicey" move is below the second bolt...other than that, every clip is easy and obvious.

Although has been lead trad, the trad version uses the arete in one spot. So....I'd say this is a good use of bolts. Every bolt is perfectly placed to protect each pumpy move. Eat some wheaties, do some pullups, come on out and get this route...it is fun, fun, fun. Nothing mysterious about the moves, just pumpy. I pumped out and fell off below the roof :-(, so had to take the redpoint.

People who say this is 5.7 probably didn't lead it on gear. The opening is thin, with marginal gear, and slightly tenous moves...enough of a combination to wake you up. The top, despite the notes here, is fine as long as you keep moving and use the good holds available to you...it feels a little spooky because your last piece is 8 feet below and underneath you, as the top bulges a little. The final move on sloper could feel scary if you were pumped, I suppose. I belayed from the top, and rapped from there using the anchors, no problem. We used to rap by slinging the horn...the anchors are better.

K. So somebody (some chump) added a bolt below the final chains...which takes all the fun out of the route. I would venture to say that this is no longer 10c because of that bolt. The crux (other than the finger pain down low) is clipping the chains while pumped at the top while looking at an 18 foot fall. I miss all the whimpering that used to come from all the people trying to bag this "easy" 10c. A valuable lesson in sport climbing (how to finish a route while pumped, and whimpering) has been destroyed by the addition of that bolt below the chains. A great route has been made entirely unremarkable and average by some climber with a drill who was also undoubtedly unremarkable and average. I rate this route no harder than 5.9 now. You can rest everywhere, the moves are not mysterious. 5.9 with that loser bolt.

..cuz you'll be too pumped to pull this crux a second time. The move on the roof is hard...placing the piece is harder ;-) Stays thin after the roof. Fell once trying to place after the roof.

Lead the first two pitches of this in 2001 (I think the last two hadn't been bolted then). Very interesting and sustained...most hold slightly rounded and vertical. I found it to be very sustained..with spicy distances between the bolts. I was highly incented not to fall. ;-)