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jolery's Logbook (49 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: High Peaks: Sangre de Cristo Range: Crestone Needle

Ellingwood Arete popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jolery on 2011-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars LONG day

This was a great experience - my first real success at long alpine rock climbing. We drove in on a rented Ford Escape - did great all the way up the road to the current end of the road. Got a couple of hours of sleep, up at 4 a.m., hiking by probably 5:30. Hike to base of route much longer than expected - took 3-4 hours. Did the Ledges start, but screwed it up I think - we took the big ravine to left of the black face instead of going up the middle to ledge. This was super loose and chossy, and required some roping up to get to first ledge. From there we wandered our way up and towards the arete - lots of different options. We stayed roped up entire time, simul-climbing as often as we could. We eventually hit the actual arete, which was hard to find once we were on it -wasn't an abrupt arete like I expected. Almost kept traversing mountain until I noticed the red tower feature, WAY below us - this feature was a life saver. The large headwall to the left of the climbing headwall that is visible from the start was also a great landmark. Started snowing when we hit headwall. Some route finding difficulty, I had trouble finding the crux pitch - I remembered it being right of the belay, but I only found choss and no pro that way. Eventually headed left of belay, then up and over little bulge onto a long ramp at the top of which I found what I believe is the actual route and crux pitch - a nice long pitch of moderate climbing. Last pitch is spectacular fourth class. We topped out too late - 5:30 ish. Descent was scary - there were discrepancies about which couloirs to take - we took the second couloir after the big couloir that looks like the right way to go, so third couloir total from summit. This was ok, but we got cliffed out and had to downclimb couple hundred feet of 4th/5th class in the snow. I believe the second couloir was the proper descent route, which we eventually met up with. The descent route was flagged with surveyor tape. Lots of places to bite it on the way down. I canít really imagine a non-climber hiking up or down this way. We got to base of mountain at pitch darkness.

Added: 2011-10-03

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Ozarks: Lake Lincoln Crags: Box Canyon

Box Canyon climb**** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jolery on 2011-10-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars finally got it clean

After a couple of years of one-hanging this route I finally got it clean - sweet climb, very crimpy and sustained. Nice juggy holds at last bolt. Route meanders around face - follow chalk/good holds

Added: 2011-10-03

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Ozarks: Haw Creek: Main Bluff

For Whom the Bell Tolls Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jolery on 2011-07-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars wow!

Amazing route, real sustained making placing gear strenuous. Watch for the rope getting stuck in a slot near end of roof traverse - plug it with a cam, or cut left then up to the anchors, or sling any piece above this point.

Added: 2011-07-08

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Ozarks: Lake Lincoln Crags: CopperHead Wall

Halloween Town Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jolery on 2010-11-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars crimpy crux without much for feet

Route put up 11/4/2010. Search out the best handholds for clipping third bolt - focus on getting your feet as solid as possible.

Added: 2010-11-16

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: The North Forty

Sonny Jim Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jolery on 2010-08-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars think tall...

Wow - I felt shorter than last year when I tried it. Cool delicate move getting thru the crux and clipping the fixed draw. Jugs from the roof to the top. Very height dependent like several of the classics at HCR.

Added: 2010-09-14

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Far East

Horseshoes and Hand Grenades popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jolery on 2010-09-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 9/11 Route

Classic route on perfect rock

Added: 2010-09-13

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Ozarks: Lake Lincoln Crags: 13 Painted Wall

Charlie Don't Surf Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jolery on 2010-07-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars success!

great sustained route - pretty crucial to clip from the best holds instead of from where you'd like to clip from. Clipping anchors is a little tricky if you're pumped, but the anchors have been replaced with easy to clip super shuts, and a bolt added to the route a few feet below the anchors.

Added: 2010-07-14

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Mullet Buttress

Mohawk Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jolery on 2009-11-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars "bouldery start"

Standard crux at start, then pretty easy. Last route of the day, made it more interesting since I was exhausted.

Added: 2009-11-23

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Mullet Buttress

Trubador Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jolery on 2009-11-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars I love this route!

My favorite of the day - have to use some different techniques up to roof, then a cool transition over to the face to the right of arete, then classic jugs to the top.

Added: 2009-11-23

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Mullet Buttress

Party in the Back Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jolery on 2009-11-22 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars good warmup - a little pumpy for an 8

Nice route with some overhang climbing at the top.

Added: 2009-11-23

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