joshua.toenyes's Logbook (14 ascents)

I had a blast leading this.

P1 - fairly well protectable up to the bolt, but runout after. There is about two moves right after the bolt that feel a little scary, then it gets easier as it runs out to the crack.

P2 - super short awkward pitch. Tape up for this one, the rock is really rough and has a tendency to eat through flesh if you get over zealous on your jamming.

P3 - P4 - P5 - I did this in 5 pitches, the last one was very short and in retrospect wasn't necessary, but I didn't know exactly how far it was to the top. There is a sharp traverse on the last pitch though so rope drag could be a serious issue.

The rap/walk off is just as described.

Great climb! I would do it again... maybe coerce somebody else into leading the first pitch though!

-Josh

I disagree with the 5.5 rating... and it's more of an offwidth than a crack. Have a couple of #4's or #5's for the top, or you will have to run 15' - 20'+ between pieces on the top... that's what I did.

It's almost a 60m route, so use a 70m rope, or make it two pitches.

I just nailed it for the first time... Took me more than a few times to master the throw!

This is one of those that you do just to check it off. Nailed it in the dark, and I'm glad I didn't bust my ass... lol

I've done this before, but this is the first time I could make it to the undercling without the assistance of the large hold in the middle of the 5.10a route.

Not an easy hand crack... Fun problem. Because of the awkward widening at the top of the crack, I'd definitely give it a 5.10a.

I placed a piece before the first bolt, and one after the last.

Fun lead.

Near perfect hand jam top-out.

Fun problem. Try to static it...