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jp_sucks's Logbook (8 ascents)

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Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Whistler, Pemberton, Lillooet: Marble Canyon: Lower wall (left side)

Sysyphus Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jp_sucks on 2001-09-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great climb! Good protection when you need it and solid rock.

Climbed this route about a dozen times back in 2000-2001. The last two pitches are the only real sustained climbing (maybe some would consider the first sport pitch as a solid one as well?). Distinct cruxes on the last two pitches are both bolt protected and solid cracks for pro the rest of the time. Straightforward rap descent. Wear helmets, still lots of loose rock on the ledges!

Added: 2014-01-26

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Central: Sedona Spires: Schnebly Hill road

Queen Victoria popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jp_sucks on 2013-12-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Climb!

Beautiful scenery, pretty easy approach and good gear the whole way. Separate rap line means you can climb up after another party and not be too congested.

Approach: 1.9 miles up the road seems like you've gone too far as you lose sight of the tower but it does make it easier. We stopped at around the 1.8mi mark and walked across the creek and uphill about 50ft to gain the trail. The trail is VERY obvious and has lots of mtn bike tracks so if you're not on a really good trail, you're not on the right approach. This trail wanders back west for a little while before starting to switchback uphill towards the notch.

One 60m rope is definitely enough. On the second rap, I lowered my wife first to make sure she would make it down and then rigged our single line for rappell. With rope stretch, I was firmly on the ground with about 1-2 ft leftover. If your rope was short (or if mine is a couple feet long?), the downclimb would be very easy and safe.

As for the wide crack question - we took a #4 camalot but no #5. It was adequate but a fall at the wrong time could have been bad. I would suggest bringing a second #4 or a #5 if your going to be climbing near your limit or if you want to be on the safe side.

Added: 2013-12-31

Routes: North America: United States: Washington: Eastern Washington: Minnehaha: Main Wall

The Dihedral Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jp_sucks on 2013-05-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Climb!

Good gear throughout. Wide variety of moves.

Added: 2013-05-22

Routes: Asia: Thailand: Southern Provinces: Railay West Beach and Tonsai Bay: Dum's Kitchen

Lion King Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jp_sucks on 2004-01-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Thailand

Pumpy route in a beautiful setting

Added: 2006-12-17

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Canmore: EEOR - Kanga: East end of Rundle

True Grit popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jp_sucks on 2003-09-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars True Grit

Fun, sustained climb up middle of wall

Added: 2006-11-13

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Jasper: Weeping Wall Area: Weeping Wall

right hand Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty WI4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jp_sucks on 2003-02-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Right Side of Weeping Wall

Excellent ice quality, protection and belays

Added: 2006-11-13

Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Whistler, Pemberton, Lillooet: Marble Canyon: Lower wall (left side)

Sysyphus Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jp_sucks on 2000-09-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sysyphus

Mostly easy climbing with two good pitches up high

Added: 2006-11-13

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: El Capitan: Southwest Face: El Capitan

Triple Direct popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 A2
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jp_sucks on 2001-10-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Triple Direct on El Cap

4 Day ascent of this really nice route

Added: 2006-11-13