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ksolem's Logbook (9 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Courtright Reservoir: Trapper Dome

Carson Kodas Arete Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ksolem on 1989-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars And I keep coming back for more...

LOCATION
The Carson Kodas Arete is a great line on perfect granite with wild exposure at a challenging grade. This fine pitch ascends the prominent arete which forms the south west corner of Trapper Dome. This formation is across the road from Trapper Springs campground and is a five minute walk from the car.

The route begins at a bolted belay stance one pitch off the ground on a ledge under the large dihedral to the right of the arete. This spot can be reached by climbing one of several routes leading up to the ledge, or you can hike up the back of the dome and rapell in from anchors across from the arete.

BETA
As is obvious from the belay, the route face climbs up and over to the arete. Climbing the arete is airy and exciting, but most climbers will find the crux to be a sequence of face moves encountered after the second bolt.

From the belay, climb up easily and clip the first bolt (A large nut with a long runner can provide optional protection for these opening moves). The next bit, up to the second bolt, is 5.10. The last couple moves to the clipping (drilling) stance require skillful footwork and are probably the worst place on the route to fall. After the second bolt, you traverse left and up, through the crux, arriving at the arete just below a small overhang and the third bolt. While doing the crux you must again climb well away from the pro, but this time your potential fall is safe and clean. The next section ascends the exposed arete. You cannot see the last bolt until you get to it (If you are climbing with double ropes, you can place a decent small wired nut in the patina on the face to the right.) In either case, a couple hard moves over the little roof lead to easier moves above and then - surprise - that 4th bolt. There is no fixed anchor, but excellent nut placements and other things to tie off to are found at the top.





FIRST ASCENT
In July 1987, when they put up this route, Ron Carson and Vaino Kodas were two of the best and boldest climbers in the area. Ron's routes on Dome Rock (Carsonoma and Chemotherapy, etc.) are legendary 5.12+ power slabs. By this time he had also led "The Dark Side" (5.12x) on Voodoo Dome, and he would go on to complete the amazing "Titanic" in The Needles with Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt. Vaino Kodas, one of the Estonians (along with Eve Laeger) of the Power Dome classic "Esto Power", established difficult new routes throughout California at a frenzied pace until moving out of the area a few years ago.

Climbing in traditional style, with the bolts drilled by a climber on the lead, this strong team established a route which stands as a testpiece at it's grade. The exhilaration which comes with a successful ascent of this pitch will leave you wanting more, even if it was a bit scary.


MORE
My own experiences with this climb have been varied. I've led it several times. I've also backed off it more than once, either because I wasn't feeling solid or it was too hot. This route is R rated - it's not a death defying stunt, but you could take a real flyer coming off in the wrong place, so use your head. If conditions are good and you're feeling it, do the deed. When you are through the crux and arrive at the arete proper, take a good look around and savor the exposure. It's one of a kind.

If your second is someone you like, you might consider pulling the rope up through the gear and tossing it back down in the clear to TR the traverse.

This is not a good route to try on a warm day in the hot sun.


Added: 2007-06-19

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Courtright Reservoir: Tiger Wall

Smiladon Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ksolem on 1994-08-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Always wanted to get this one.

The bouldery overhanging opening moves lead to fabulous face climbing above.

Added: 2007-06-19

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Courtright Reservoir: Voyager Rock

By Jupiter, There's Rings Around Uranus Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ksolem on 1989-08-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars The FA of By Jupiter..

..was my first serious climb with Herb Laeger. We had a blast and went on to do lots of routes together. Herb named the route while looking up at me on the second pitch, we had heard on the rdaio while driving that the Voyager probe had just dicovered rings around the planet Uranus and there it was...

This route is a Courtright gem. I have gone back and done it several more times.

Added: 2007-06-18

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Courtright Reservoir: Voyager Rock

The Gold STandard Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ksolem on 1990-09-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars The Gold Standard FA

This is really a five star pitch, but it is so desperately thin and continuous that I can only give it 3 fun stars. It is awesome if you like this sort of thing.

Added: 2007-03-30

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Courtright Reservoir: Power Dome

Esto Power Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ksolem on 2005-08-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Esto Power ...

This is one of the best routes on power dome. Super fun. I've done it 3 or 4 times now, and look forward to doing again one of these days.

Added: 2007-03-30

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Courtright Reservoir: Voyager Rock

Seam Stress Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ksolem on 1988-09-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars I couldn't believe my eyes..

When I walked along the base of Voyager Rock and found this gem.

Added: 2007-03-28

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Quail Springs: Hound Rock

Crescent Wrench Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ksolem on 1990-03-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Tough one, this is...

I led this thing in about 1990 (posted date is a guess, but this stupid software requires an exact date, not always easy for us oldies..)

Went back and tr'd it recently with good results. I think it is one of the hardest .10d's around.

Added: 2007-03-28

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Outback: Dinosaur Rock

Dyno-Soar Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ksolem on 1992-01-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Just to set the record straight...

This was first climbed with some aid moves by Todd Swain. He was kind enough to tell me about it, thinking it would suit me. So I went and checked it out. After some attempts, I did it free at .12a in Jan '92. I used Todd's bolts and added none. It is a short hard little climb with big moves on slopers. Some small stoppers and/ or tcu's work for pro at the start, followed by 2 bolts and then easier climbing above.

Added: 2007-03-28

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Domelands: Church Dome: Temple Of Doom

Vatican Porn Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ksolem on 1994-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Good route

Mike and Mari found a real gem here with this one. Don't forget to bring your best fingers...

Added: 1994-07-04