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leoand23's Logbook (262 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Mayhem Cove: Mayhem Cove

Huntin' Gator Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: leoand23 on 2014-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Stout route w tricky finish

I Could not make the last moves and had to aid to clip the chains. Really fantastic route that let me wondering if something broke after the last bolt!

Added: 2014-07-07

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Mayhem Cove: Mayhem Cove

Riddler Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2014-07-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars My favorite route of the wall...

...Granted I only climbed car jacker, diamond, zirconia and Huntin' gator. The route had a little bit of everything and that made it awesome.

Added: 2014-07-07

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Mayhem Cove: Mayhem Cove

Cubic Zarconia Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2014-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars great complement to the neighbour route

My only complain was the sun. (wait until the afternoon to climb in this lower area). Great route. Felt a little bit easier than Diamond.

Added: 2014-07-07

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Mayhem Cove: Mayhem Cove

Diamond Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2014-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route

I did not expect much but was pleasantly surprised by this route. I liked it a lot. The heady part up high on the slab will make u pause for a second or two but it is well protected. It seemed harder than the route to the right.


Added: 2014-07-07

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Mayhem Cove: Mayhem Cove

Car Jacker Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2014-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good warmup

Very close bolts at the bottom. Watch out for a couple of loose rocks marked with X.

Added: 2014-07-07

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Royal Arches: Royal Arches

Royal Arches popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7 A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2014-05-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Only about 5 quality pitches but I see why it is a classic.

Early start (6:30am) and a beautiful Sunday day. Conditions were perfect and route is dry (dry winter). Traded Linking a couple of pitches and simulclimbed the 3rd and 4th class portions of the route. Highlights of the route were the P1 chimney, and the pitches before and after the pendulum. Bear hug flake was awesome. Best pitch of the day IMO was linking p11-p12. (where the Rotten Log used to be); perfect finger crack with good pro and exposure; together with the parallel cracks that follow make for an awesome full pitch.
Mental crux of the climb (if you don't rap) is the 5.4 friction along the crest of the face with 1,400' of air beneath you (I call that exposure) with no pro and a crappy spinner old bolt to protect (don't fall).
Started at 6:30am; topped out at 1pm; had lunch at top and started hiking down at 1:30pm. Trail is very obvious, but good to have the super topo directions; only missed the trail once after second slabby area (second set of manzanita trees); only lost about 10-20 minutes, and finished the descent in about two and a half hours (with getting lost for a bit). down at the car by 4pm.

Added: 2014-05-19

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Cathedral Rocks: Rocks: Middle Cathedral Rock: East Buttress

East Buttress Middle Cathedral popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2014-05-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Indeed a classic

Amazing route. Climbed with a 70m. We used the rappel route (exiting after p11) and were down in no time. It is a sweet route. Started from car at 6am; back at car at 3:30pm.
P1-P2 Lead - Linked; roof was a little spicy
P3-P4 Follow - Linked; P3 was one of my favorites; loved the finger corner.
P5-P6 Lead - Aided the bolt ladder; traverse left was a little spicy after the last bolt. roof went clean; topo misleadme to traverse hard right (sketchy) and did not find the piton; went for the alternate bolted belay.
P7-P8 - follow, Stucked behind slow party had to wait to continue.
P9 - lead; still stuck behind slow party. belay at a tree. easy pitch.
p9-p11 follow; easy pitch. Splitter was really nice; last portion was unexpectedly fun.
use rap route on the left and came down in about 2 hours.


Added: 2014-05-19

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Five Open Books: Five Open Books

Selaginella Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: leoand23 on 2014-05-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Superb route (Link up with commitment)

First attempt (09/28/13) Lead P1, and thought it was very strenuous for 5.7 ow. Bailed at 4pm b/c it was getting to late to finish with daylight.
Second attempt (4/5/14) Linked up with Commitment. (P1,P3 of Commitment) Lead P2,P4 of Salaginella; Perfect link up for a gorgeous day (Actually harder than commitment). Tony lead P1 and P3. What a great route . It would be 5 star if it was not for P2 and P3. Be careful specially with P3 because the topo is not very descriptive. It is not very intuitively that you have to clip the piton and do the "wild" move; it is an exposed move to gain a ledge where you traverse left. (We got a little bit off route but we climbed down and did the traverse that we missed initially). P1 and P4 are definitely 5 stars and really have it all: hand jams, little ow, finger section with stem moves to top it all aff with an airy layback finish at the chimney. (A must do!)
At the end once you get to the falls trail make sure you go right to see the falls (Don't miss out!). Trail down to the base goes left.

Added: 2014-05-05

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: North Dome: South Face

Crest Jewel Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2014-05-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Longest and scariest slab multipitch I've ever climbed

Having just said that it was long and scary I must also say it was really unique and amazing having shared this experience with Tony. We approach from Porcupine creek after arriving at the trail at 11:30pm on Tioga Pass opening day. We hiked in the dark through some snow patches and creek crossings with snow. Fortunately there were snow prints and amazingly we made it about half way and stop at 2am to sleep. Started hiking next day around 9am and didn't make it to the base until 11:30 (manzanita trees are crazy but not as bad as I expected). After the manzanitas ended we walked to the edge of the slabs to a crack and found a rapping station that we used to lower to the left of the climb start (after rapping go right and you'll find the start after descending one more little slab). Tony linked p1-2 (IMO the crux was p2). The granite was very slippery (perhaps too many people climbing it have made for slick rock). We swapped leads all the way to the top passing through endless slab; sketchy traverses and scary runouts. I agree that P2 is more difficult than P8. All in all this route took all I had fortunately w/o whippers or falls of any kind. Two tumbs up to whoever links Royal Arches to Crest Jewel. (I probably could never do it). It was exhausting just climbing Crest Jewel.
We topped out at 4pm and chilled a bit at the top; started our descent back to the car; Nedless to say I was exhausted by the time we got to the car after and epic day!

Added: 2014-05-05

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Sheep Pass: Saddle Rocks

Walk on the Wild Side popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2014-03-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars What a fun route (froze my but tho!)

Great day as party of 3 up this great route. It was run out but I have climbed worst runout routes by now (snake dike; dike route; aqua knobby). In any case just be sure to have your lead head on. Bring a jacket it gets windy up there. (Tony and I split the leads and I started)

Added: 2014-05-05

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