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losinghand's Logbook (87 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Lovers Leap: Hogsback

Mixologist Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: losinghand on 2015-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Super fun

Great climb. The crux is the obvious bulge by the only bolt. Go for the undercling and step with high feet. From there follow the crack - I mostly relied on lefts in the crack and rights on the face on small holds/dikes.

Snap links at the top for an easy rappel. I think the 5.9 is if you stay left of the bulge, the 10a is staying right near the bolt.

Added: 2015-05-02

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Lovers Leap: Hogsback

Hogwild Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: losinghand on 2015-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Stiff

Amanda led this, and it seemed pretty stiff for 5.7. Sustained, a little runout, and not great protection. I found it harder than the 5.9 next to it.

There's 3 bolts that could use longer slings. Otherwise some small crack exist - but still felt runout in places. Despite what supertopo says - I don't think anything larger than .75 would go. 70m rope just barely makes it to rap/tr - actually had have the climber solo a few feet to clip the belay in. Make sure to tie knots in the end.

It was a fun climb, though not quite the amazing status supertopo gave. A mix of styles, but mostly some small holds on horizontal dikes, a little balance-y

Added: 2015-05-02

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Lovers Leap: Hogsback

Harvey's Wallbangers, Center Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: losinghand on 2015-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun

Good route. The start entails a fairly exposed scramble - pass deception and look for the obvious large tree up and to the right. That's the start for Harvey's right, and a short traverse 20' left is the center start.

Some belay options but nicest spot seemed to be an obvious ledge with a hight piton. Just below that are some sketchy loose blocks on the right, and then at the belay there's a center block in the crack that entices you to sling or place pro next to, but it's also quite loose. A #3 or #4 can go next to the piton.

Added: 2015-05-02

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Lovers Leap: Hogsback

Knapsack Crack popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: losinghand on 2015-05-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Easy

Took charlie and Andrea out for their first trad climbs. Easy warmup. Really doesn't feel 5.5 - it's a great spot to teach/learn.

Added: 2015-05-02

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Francisco Bay: Castle Rock State Park: Castle Rock

Chockstone popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: losinghand on 2015-04-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Easy

Easy

Added: 2015-04-30

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Half Dome: North Face

Regular NW Face popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 A1
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: losinghand on 2011-08-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First Big Wall!

Did the RNWF last weekend, my first Big Wall climb. We topped out on Saturday 8/6/11. A few thoughts and tidbits of advice:

We were a party of 3, with a haul bag. 1 had climbed the route before, and was fairly experienced on walls. 2 of us were not - both competent moderate trad climbers, and I had a solid background in rigging, hauling systems, jugging etc (I've worked as a rigger professionally).

We did the Death Slabs approach at first light on Wed, and it took us WAY longer than expected (like 6 hours). Part of this was having a friend as sherpa who wasn't a climber, and part was getting a bit lost on the slabs - but the approach was much longer and steeper than any of us expected. With heavy packs/haul bag, we found the approach pretty tiring and long. Still maybe better than hiking around - but not the easiest approach either.

Due to the long approach - we only ended up fixing the first 3 pitches (we had hoped for the first 5). 2 60m ropes did the trick. Both springs were running solid - so we pumped water for a while - about 33 liters total for the climb. We started up the fixed ropes just at sunrise - and had 2 BASE jumpers in squirrel suits surprise us overhead - pretty cool.

We were moving SLOW - largely due to hauling issues, and sorting out some rope management issues with the 3 of us. We hadn't really thought through good systems with the 3rd - so it was a mix of jugging the haul line, lowering out the bag/3rd at times, 2nd cleaning and re-clipping pieces etc. We learned some systems quick - but still only made it to Pitch 11 late for a bivy. Pitch 11 will fit 3 people, but isn't the coziest bivy ledge.

The next day, we had lots of hauling issues on the Chimneys and some traverses. Even slower moving than the day before, and we hit Pitch 16 at nightfall - getting ourselves a bit off-route. The Supertopo shows the top of pitch 16 as having a horn, with a single bolt below and right (correct belay), or a pair of bolts above and left (incorrect belay). We only saw one bolt on the left, so assumed that was the right spot. WRONG. We headed up right from, and a HUGE house-sized flake is extremely loose. The giant thing flexed under the weight of an aid move on a large (#3?) cam, and is a serious disaster waiting to happen. It spit the cam back out at us, scaring the pants of us, especially given the late hour. We eventually realized we were off route - and downclimbed to the correct belay, and made it to Big Sandy way, way, late (like 2am).

Big Sandy was a great, but short sleep, and we headed off in the am. We were moving better, but still hauling was slow and tedious. The chimney after Thank God Ledge seemed more trouble than it was worth, so we traversed further and aided around the left of the chimney. I cleaned TGL, and took a little tumble when the ledge tapers in and becomes narrower. The final pitch was trickier than 5.7 I felt - especially having to clean the traverse. On the final pendulum before heading up right on the 5.5 finish I had a cam pull - so ended up taking quite the scraper across the slab.

We topped out around 7:15pm - enough time for a bite to eat, some re-packing, and to get down the cables/steps before nightfall. A long hike back to the car, and we hit the Curry Village showers at 1am.

Booty call? We lost a Link-Cam somewhere in the middle (can't remember the pitch), our 3rd dropped a smaller BD cam at one point, and a #4 C4 should be stuck near the end of Thank God Ledge (none of them were placed by me, thank you very much!).

Great experience, I realize I probably should have trained more for it (endurance, jugging etc), and we needed to work out our rope management and systems better. But all in all, super glad I did it. And now happy to go back to some more moderate multi-pitch stuff for a while.


Added: 2011-08-12

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Lovers Leap: Lower Buttress

Surrealistic Pillar popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: losinghand on 2011-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice route, good exposure

Fun climb, varied. Pitch 1 was a mix of cracks, dikes, and some flakes. Pitch 2 was more dikes and slabby - though I used the off-width crack a bit (5.8 variation). We got off route at the end, and went a little too high, and had to traverse back left on the start of Pitch 3 to regain the arete. Fun climb for sure.

Added: 2011-07-05

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Keene Valley: Chapel Pond Slab

Regular Route popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: losinghand on 2011-06-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun route, totally wandered

Great route, beautiful views. We had no clue where we were going - just went up and wandered. It was all fairly easy, a little runout in places - but on easy terrain. With a 60m rope we did it in 5 pitches - sort of randomly picked intermediate belays (mostly, because we were wandering). Plenty of options on this one.

Added: 2011-06-22

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Keene Valley: Beer Walls

Seven Ounces Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: losinghand on 2011-06-22 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun route

It's short, but fun. Protects well, nice crack with a few face features on either side.

Added: 2011-06-22

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Keene Valley: Beer Walls

Sword Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: losinghand on 2011-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Followed up after RedRum

This was a nice climb. We did RedRum for the first pitch, then traversed left into the corner for The Sword. There's a single bolt halfway up, but a few spots to protect (small to med) along the way. Fun climb

Added: 2011-06-22

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