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lovesclimbing's Logbook (191 ascents)

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Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Banff-Lake Louise: Stanley Headwall: Stanley Headwall

Nightmare on Wolf Street Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty WI6 M8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2016-01-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars What a Route!!!

This is a wild route steep through out, the rock is bolted very well, the ice can be serious and hard with some thin sections detatched. A must do route, if not climbing fast at grade dont underestimate the time needed. I have skied to it everytime and out again however I did once decend down the slopes about 100m right of Nightmare, it requiered basicly a 70m rap or a 50m and 20m Im not sure if its any faster than doing the full traverse or not but we had very stable conditions.

Added: 2016-01-16

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Banff-Lake Louise: Stanley Headwall: Stanley Headwall

French Reality Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8 WI6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2015-12-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route

This is a amazing route with a bit of everything, great mixed climbing with the odd steep move, steep ice that is hard to find in other areas, great ice climbing.

Added: 2015-12-23

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Jasper: Mt. Murchison: Murchison Falls Area

Virtual Reality Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty WI6 M4
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2015-12-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Very fun

This is a great route, when trail is broke in it is about 1-1.5 hours in, with great areas to rack up. There is a couple of approach ice steps that can be easily soloed, make your way to the base of the route and decide on a dry line, 1st pitch is between wi 4-5 depending where you go but take a look at all the hanging daggers, I found a great ice cave 50m up on the left side, 2nd pitch I left the cave to the left up a short piller to another piller to a mixed traverse to a hanging belay. 3rd had a small mixed move to globs of ice held together by delaminated ice with poor pro for a few meters to a small ledge. Pitch 4 went up a layered curtin with poor pro for 10 meters and started to drop off in angle for another 20m to the top. We topped out to a huge cool valley and rapped murchison.

Added: 2015-12-04

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Jasper: Weeping Wall Area: mix master

mix master Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty WI5 M4
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2015-11-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Super fun

Great route, very fun straight forward climbing, last pitch was very poor ice, more like lenze ice over snow with poor pro but great climbing more like 5 pitches of climbing

Added: 2015-11-28

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Kananaskis Country: Mt. Kidd (II): Mt.Kidd

North East Buttress Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2015-09-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun day out

This route is graded III 5.7, as with most alpine rock routes in the rockies if it feels much harder than the grade your off route, there is a fair amount of loose rock and route finding in the begining goes against the rock climber in you, do not try the obvious grove on the buttress proper, this leads to much more diffcult climbing and bad pro, find the easier loose 'chimney' to the left, there is the odd set of pins you may find a pitch off the ground although this is an old rap station, above the chimney leads to aboout 100m of scrambling in which you may find odd pin scars at the base of the upper face on the border of the NF and buttress. The next pitch climbs better rock, once below the white spot the next couple of pitchs are the good climbing on the route, traverse right aprox 20ft diagonal to what seems like the most solid but steep break in the wall, the pro is thin and I placed a lost arrow at this break and did the best move on the route that seems a bit above grade but when climbing easier routes.... Cont up and slight left following the best rock and pro, I did not find the 'grassy ledge above the white spot' but did find the single bolt anchor on a good ledge out further right of the white spot that allows you to do the final 2 long pitchs that mainly follow cimneys and gullies to the top. 8 hrs or less on route should be expected as long as no route finding diffculties.

the approach on the ridge is really neat as its almost flat from the fire look out to the base with a quaint trail

Added: 2015-09-21

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Canmore: EEOR - Kanga: East end of Rundle

Balzac Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2015-06-16 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Intresting adventure

This part of the wall you can almost climb anywhere you want although you can get into some hard ground if not carful, this is not a very well travelled route with no fixed anchors with only the odd peice of fixed gear. The 1-3 pitchs are somewhat easy to follow but ensure you follow to the right on pitch 3, dont head to the bail sling to the left. 4th pitch climbs the very obvious right hand crack DONT HEAD LEFT, the right crack is very fun with great gear. The 5th pitch (crux) climbs a thin poorly protected crack to a steep slab, I was able to get to ok pins that I equilzed in the hand ledge to the left above the thin crack, the rest of the slab and crack climbs ok, at the top of the slab I was able to find some poor gear before the crux, if no one has retro the rivets I would recomend taking some cord to atleast thread them as a fall on the crux with bad gear on this pitch will be bad. The rest of the route follow the huge ramp/gully.

Added: 2015-08-03

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Calgary: Yamnuska: yam

Bottleneck Direct Direct Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2013-08-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Burly

This pitch is one of the Kallen 34, the rock is for the most part very solid and the lower half of the pitch takes great gear. The climbing in the lower part has good feet and hands and crack, we started below the pitch following the crack towards Bottleneck Direct and than traversed over, Decide when ever you want to when your there, once headed up Direct Direct pro and climbing was good, once up to the offwidth there where a few slung chockstones but none were ideal. My partner found the crux at this point trying to get into the crack. Myself as a thicker guy and not big on crack I was able to stand up and steam using climbers right wall quite a bit on good holds. Past that there was a poor pin but better than nothing and than the squeeze chimney which I basicly had to climb on the outside where as my partner was able to stay on the inside with poor pro after this. Not sure if a huge peice like a #6 or bigbro would do anything as I dont have one but could mitagate the small runout however you would than have to drag it everywhere as well.
Gear anchor at top

Added: 2013-08-19

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Canmore: EEOR - Kanga: East end of Rundle

MacKay Route Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2013-08-17 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Adventur route

This route trys following the right trending ramp although the main corner is avoided now because of the use of aid and some rank rock for where you would have to climb as well as the huge amount of thin grear/pins needed. The first what I would call 5 pitchs climb non discrip slab and corners at low climbing grade. I lead the first 4 pitchs in approach shoes and linked them with a 70m rope as two pitchs. The 4th pitch anchor, one of the hangers is bent over although I cant remember if it was a self drive or a insert bolt. The 5th pitch anchor as a ok pin but the insert bolt has been wrecked buy rock fall the bolt is pulled out 1/2". The 6th pitch is the 5.7 corner crack that its pro would be very thin. A couple of knife blades or thin lost arrows would remove a 15m runout on old school 5.7 ground. The crux pitch starts off with 5.6-7 slab with no pro till a pin/bolt at the base of the face. I countinued a bit to far left on the face to the hand rail but I think you need to go up the groove directly above. The way I went created lots of rope drag with a 5.10c move into the hand rail. The rest of the traverse is sustaned with great hands but very thin feet. This ends at a single bolt with good gear above. The next pitch is very run out and I missed whatever belay there was and linked the rotten corner pitch together whitch ends in a crack feature in the main face at a single pin backed up by gear. I linked the next two pitchs almnost stright up on run out slab to the base of the steeper wall center groove/crack with a single pin and decent gear. The move above I found diffcult so protect right away and than linked the next 2 pitchs up to a large slopping ledge and found a semi ok anchor high right on the ledge. Walk/scramble about 70m climbers right until you find a single bolt on good rock. Head stight up to the large treed ledge, I took the Girls Lie exit as its such a good pitch. Overall a neat route if you are tired of sterized routes although if I did it again I would take alteast 6 thiner pins and expect to leave at least 3 of them.

Added: 2013-08-18

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Calgary: Yamnuska: yam

The Milky Way Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2013-08-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars better route than thought

I found this route quite fun although the guide book only gives 1 out of 3 stars. I have climbed much of this route on other climbs but it was great to finily get it all together. The last pitch reminded me of the 5.11 exit on Forbidden Fruit just not as sustained but with a far more exciting finish.
I have climbed the 2nd last pitch twice, on of my partners has climbed it twice as well and says he would never go back to it because of the traverse and questionable rock. I find the traverse very cool and the holds are great, some of the rock is a bit questionable but not overly so. I recomand this route as in the book and other places seem to shit on it.

Added: 2013-08-03

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Banff-Lake Louise: Mt.Louis: Mt. Louis

Homage to the Spider, III 5.9 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2013-07-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great route

A very good route. We had troubles finding a good trail past the Kain route and ended up doing a lot of side hilling. We did the lower scramble and was a good appraoch aside from a small down climb that was a bit wet. The climb has been described offten so aside from it being quite a pull at times it is rather stright forward and a very worth while trip.

We took a full double rack to #4 and you will be happy takeing them.

Added: 2013-07-16

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