lovesclimbing's Logbook (196 ascents)

This part of the wall you can almost climb anywhere you want although you can get into some hard ground if not carful, this is not a very well travelled route with no fixed anchors with only the odd peice of fixed gear. The 1-3 pitchs are somewhat easy to follow but ensure you follow to the right on pitch 3, dont head to the bail sling to the left. 4th pitch climbs the very obvious right hand crack DONT HEAD LEFT, the right crack is very fun with great gear. The 5th pitch (crux) climbs a thin poorly protected crack to a steep slab, I was able to get to ok pins that I equilzed in the hand ledge to the left above the thin crack, the rest of the slab and crack climbs ok, at the top of the slab I was able to find some poor gear before the crux, if no one has retro the rivets I would recomend taking some cord to atleast thread them as a fall on the crux with bad gear on this pitch will be bad. The rest of the route follow the huge ramp/gully.

This pitch is one of the Kallen 34, the rock is for the most part very solid and the lower half of the pitch takes great gear. The climbing in the lower part has good feet and hands and crack, we started below the pitch following the crack towards Bottleneck Direct and than traversed over, Decide when ever you want to when your there, once headed up Direct Direct pro and climbing was good, once up to the offwidth there where a few slung chockstones but none were ideal. My partner found the crux at this point trying to get into the crack. Myself as a thicker guy and not big on crack I was able to stand up and steam using climbers right wall quite a bit on good holds. Past that there was a poor pin but better than nothing and than the squeeze chimney which I basicly had to climb on the outside where as my partner was able to stay on the inside with poor pro after this. Not sure if a huge peice like a #6 or bigbro would do anything as I dont have one but could mitagate the small runout however you would than have to drag it everywhere as well.
Gear anchor at top

This route trys following the right trending ramp although the main corner is avoided now because of the use of aid and some rank rock for where you would have to climb as well as the huge amount of thin grear/pins needed. The first what I would call 5 pitchs climb non discrip slab and corners at low climbing grade. I lead the first 4 pitchs in approach shoes and linked them with a 70m rope as two pitchs. The 4th pitch anchor, one of the hangers is bent over although I cant remember if it was a self drive or a insert bolt. The 5th pitch anchor as a ok pin but the insert bolt has been wrecked buy rock fall the bolt is pulled out 1/2". The 6th pitch is the 5.7 corner crack that its pro would be very thin. A couple of knife blades or thin lost arrows would remove a 15m runout on old school 5.7 ground. The crux pitch starts off with 5.6-7 slab with no pro till a pin/bolt at the base of the face. I countinued a bit to far left on the face to the hand rail but I think you need to go up the groove directly above. The way I went created lots of rope drag with a 5.10c move into the hand rail. The rest of the traverse is sustaned with great hands but very thin feet. This ends at a single bolt with good gear above. The next pitch is very run out and I missed whatever belay there was and linked the rotten corner pitch together whitch ends in a crack feature in the main face at a single pin backed up by gear. I linked the next two pitchs almnost stright up on run out slab to the base of the steeper wall center groove/crack with a single pin and decent gear. The move above I found diffcult so protect right away and than linked the next 2 pitchs up to a large slopping ledge and found a semi ok anchor high right on the ledge. Walk/scramble about 70m climbers right until you find a single bolt on good rock. Head stight up to the large treed ledge, I took the Girls Lie exit as its such a good pitch. Overall a neat route if you are tired of sterized routes although if I did it again I would take alteast 6 thiner pins and expect to leave at least 3 of them.

I found this route quite fun although the guide book only gives 1 out of 3 stars. I have climbed much of this route on other climbs but it was great to finily get it all together. The last pitch reminded me of the 5.11 exit on Forbidden Fruit just not as sustained but with a far more exciting finish.
I have climbed the 2nd last pitch twice, on of my partners has climbed it twice as well and says he would never go back to it because of the traverse and questionable rock. I find the traverse very cool and the holds are great, some of the rock is a bit questionable but not overly so. I recomand this route as in the book and other places seem to shit on it.

A very good route. We had troubles finding a good trail past the Kain route and ended up doing a lot of side hilling. We did the lower scramble and was a good appraoch aside from a small down climb that was a bit wet. The climb has been described offten so aside from it being quite a pull at times it is rather stright forward and a very worth while trip.

We took a full double rack to #4 and you will be happy takeing them.

This route was one of the last routes I needed for the Kallen 34 and although at times I can be pulling down a bit stronger I went there with a very strong partner since I had not climbed in over 6 weeks because of work and family. As we were both experanced climbers I failed to double check the start of the route as being my 80th or so route on Yam (would have figured I would know better by now) and I went up an obvious groove through loose and very runout ground that lead to the top of p2, I do not recomend that as it was a very poor desicion and very dangerous. Pitch 3 and 4 has some good climbing going around the big arch with some incredible rock that looks like it came stright from the balrogs labyrinth. P5 climbs steeply through loose rock with somewhat poor pro and possiably very high rope drag. P6 runs up some easy ground to a piller that on p7 you will step around head up the left side and than step low again to treaverse left on semi run ground to a loose corner to head up to the belay. P8 the crux pitch and it is that and some, climbs a steep crack with a very smooth left wall, the bolts on the crux would not take a fall although there is a newish selfdrive in that area but the crack takes good gear although the #5 while climbing tipped out. The chimney pitchs are just taht chimney with some loose rock and limited pro. The last pitch was a very good pitch with decent pro and fun climbing despit being chimney in a very sort of grillmirers type. The name of this climb is very fitting, not being a big lord of the rings guy but seeing the movies with my kids you can imagine heading into its labyrinth, through that boiled rock (big reason to do the route) battleing through the steedy and hard crux, going through the mountin in the chimney and exiting out at the top. A neat route although I found it very hard at the time.

In summer in dry conditions this is basicly a very long rock route, the walk in is a good walk with little up hill, the walk around the lake is stright forward keeping close to the shore, the walk up the boulder feild is long however good travle can be had. I took the first pitch through a break that was a bit wet, felt closer to 5.7, the scrambling has good travle on the rock ledges to the rib. We simule climbed about 150-200m of 5.5+ climbing to the steeper rib. We started pitching it out as my partner was a bit weaker but I would suggest to simulclimb a bit further. You can almost climb anywhere on the rib for many many pitchs. At the steeper wall I went right insted of left because of trying to keep my partner protected from the runout traverse, I messed around looking for a break untill I went up the leaning tower that took me into a steep groove that climbed the corner at 10a with a pin in place and ok pro. I topped out on a ledge a pitch below the top main headwall. We bivyed there somewhat protected from above but not from wind. In the morning I travesed the loose ledge left and got back on route. The crack corner system climbed well past a few pins onto a very loose wide gully, stick to the right for the best rock and protect before leaveing the real climbing. About another 15m up and right found another good ledge with cracks for a good anchor. A 5.7ish crack system to the right took me to a two pin anchor and a tower with a sling on it. Lots of tat there that looks like a retreat but was good anyways. I headed up the tower to a couple of pins and than into a very loose rotten litle alcove to as single pin and nut fixed belay. Up left past one pin into the steep corner carck with steady climbing at grade to the two pin semi hanging anchor. Head up again to a 2-3 pin anchor for the traverse to the right on good holds and very airy. The line countinues right trending up steady face climbing with spaced pins at grade to a small roof below a larger one, I made my way over the roof and than made thin moves right to get to a good crack that let me clip a high pin and than step far right to get on to the face around the corner on good rock, try to frind some pro to protect your second here, another 20 ft right find a good 2 pin anchor with one easy pitch to the top out to a scree slope and a small back tower type scamble. running water can be found on the top right side of the scramble.

Fun route, very long, took a single set to #4 bd and full set of nuts and a few pins that I placed once for an anchor. This route would be horriable to retreat from above the first 6 pitchs of climbing. The cruxs at grade is steady and not easy 5.9, very much proper yam gradeing, in grassi it would be 10+

This route is long and full on for the grade, not a begginer 5.9. The frist two pitchs have poor gear with the first being quite poor with bad rock on both and huge fall potential. The rock on the 3rd pitch becomes very good with a strenious 5.9 with good gear and fun climbing. Pitch 4 is a fun pitch with a aquward layback movement into the upper groove. Pitch 5 leads to a good ledge. We looked at the direct route although it is quite runout to the bolts, the traverse is very exciting with good but tecky gear and a hard move on to the ledge which follows a loose face on poor pro to a two bolt belay that isnt marked on the topo. Pitch 7 is very fun with a bit scraby rock at first but becomes bomber and a very fun corner crack. Pitch 8 is another good pitch as well at grade. Pitch 9 Has a long down climb that can be protected well and the down climb is very easy, the slabs are solid but a bit run out at easy climbing to a single bolt with a couple of good nut placements. The corner climbs well however once it turns into a chimney there are a few big blocks on top. The remaining pitchs can be done however you really want, there are many choices with lots of belay stations, we simul climbed it in one pitch at 5.8ish.

fun, soft

fun route, good war, up for the day