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mandrake's Logbook (82 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Central: Oak Creek Over Look: 1. Trinity Sector

5. Right Trinity Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mandrake on 2007-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars classic #1 camalots

This route is a touch wider than middle trinity, so I was able to squeeze in some jams. Fire in the #1 and go!

Added: 2007-09-04

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Tuolumne Meadows: Fairview Dome: North Side

Lucky Streaks popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mandrake on 2007-08-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great Route!

Loved this route! I liked it better than Regular Route: it's all climbing to the very top of the route, no 4th class pitches or wandering munge. Classic, all six pitches.

I don't think I'm a 10d trad climber, but I onsited the crux (which is short). The hand/finger jams seemed fairly solid, while the feet were smeary and greasy, and the gear was bomber.

Added: 2007-08-28

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Suicide Rock: NE Buttress

Flower of High Rank popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mandrake on 2007-07-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars one pitch

This route is very do-able in one pitch, with a 60M. If you do, try to save a couple cams between #1 and 3 so you can belay a little bit closer to the edge of the topout (otherwise there's a tree 30' back, but you'll have drag issues and it'll be hard to hear). It's burrrr-ly. 9+

Added: 2007-07-23

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Tahquitz Rock: Northwest Recess

The Consolation Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mandrake on 2007-07-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Why only one star?

Huhn. Why did Gaines and Vogel only give it a single star? I thought the meat of it was a fantastic route. We did the Constellation start (instead of the 3rd class approach), which was pretty good. Also, from the point where you go over to Whodunnit, I ran it up through the roof on the direct finish. While the direct finish is worth doing (non-crux sections have some crappy rock), it would be better to have the belay close for the crux steep jamming section (at probably 10a/b) so rope stretch doesn't drop you onto the ledge if you blow it.

Added: 2007-07-16

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Central: Oak Creek Over Look: 1. Trinity Sector

3. Left Trinity Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mandrake on 2007-07-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars classic

The easiest of the Trinities, crux protects with #1 and .75 camalots. Save a #2 to crank through the roof. Wonderful route.

Added: 2007-07-10

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Northern: Paradise Forks: Pillow wall

Geekus Amongst Us Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mandrake on 2007-05-27 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Geekus

Note: this route is immediately right of Pillow Talk. The person talking about the dirty route may have been one line to the right. Keep your gear close down low as there's a nasty, tooth shaped block right off the deck. Okay route, for the grade I like Crack a Pogo, Pillow talk and P. Case better.

Added: 2007-05-29

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Northern: Paradise Forks: Pillow wall

Ivory Snow Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: mandrake on 2007-05-27 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars sandbag

Total sandbag. More like 11c.

Added: 2007-05-29

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Central: Oak Creek Over Look: 6. Duck Soup to Griffos Sector

Crackup Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mandrake on 2007-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars crackup

Good route to break into the grade. Good pro, short crux up high, safe falls.

Added: 2007-05-14

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: McDowell Mountains: Toms Thumb

Treiber's Deception popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mandrake on 2007-05-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Treiber's

Take two #4 camalots and maybe a couple of screamers for the old bolts. I've done it without them in the past, but it makes the couple of wide sections into no-fall zones.

Added: 2007-05-07

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Pine Creek Canyon: Brass Wall

Birdland popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mandrake on 2006-09-23 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

A new classic! That Roxanna Brock didn't give it 5 stars amazes me. Though just a touch harder, I thought it was better than Cat in a Hat.

Added: 2006-09-23

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