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markhwebster's Logbook (3 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Washington: Central Washington: Frenchman Coulee AKA Vantage: Sunshine Wall Area: King Pins

George and Martha Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: markhwebster on 2008-11-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars geoge and martha

awesome climb! the bottom 30 feet is too big for fingers, but too small for good hand jams so you just have to power through it on the great feet. The feet in that section are so good it's like a slender ladder, and you can step right for a long stem in several places. The pro is awesome all the way, you can see what you need from the bottom. The second 40 feet is sinker hand jams. Bring a half dozen hand sized cams (red, yellow and blue camalots). I think I had 4 yellow. At the top it widens up to a 5 inch crack and a 4 camalot fit's perfect there. The secret is to reach way deep, back on the left and grab the flake with your left hand. Believe it or not, after that, it's just a layback move against your toe jams. Very classic climb on awesome rock. Not at all the shattered rock you find on many other vantage climbs.

Added: 2008-11-26

Routes: North America: United States: Washington: Central Washington: Frenchman Coulee AKA Vantage: Sunshine Wall Area: King Pins

Air Guitar popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
Onsight Onsight ascent by: markhwebster on 2008-11-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars air guitar

love this climb! It starts out with thin fingers, but there are ledges to grab mixed in with the fingers. There are also stem footholds to be had out on the sides for a true no hands rest in several places. It eats pro and is totally safe if you are careful with your gear. I like to long sling most of my cams just to be sure they don't walk. There are some nice slots for passive gear as well.

Added: 2008-11-26

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Glacier Point Apron: Apron

Apron Jam Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: markhwebster on 2008-09-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars great off width layback

I led this (with a couple hangs) and enjoyed it. It's basically a 5 inch thick flake that lays on the rock but is separated from the cliff by up to 5 inches of space. Because the apron leans over, you can layback up this massive flake without too much strain. It does go on for a good 60 to 80 feet though, so your arms get tired. I had a 2 big bro and used that low down. I also had a 4 and a 5 camalot and walked those up with me. You can stop to rest a little by jamming your left foot and ankle in the crack, but it's not too secure. Up higher, the crack gets narrower. It's a lovely climb, but with the recent rockfall, which happened a month after we were there, it might be unwise to do. We didn't here a single thing fall in 2 days of climbing at the apron from the grack to son of sam...still, there are safer cliffs. It's a shame though, as there are so many nice climbs there. I heard one geologist say that later in the year (october) when the rains and freezing happen that rockfall is more likely...but I'm no expert

Added: 2008-10-13