mckbill's Logbook (31 ascents)

Enjoyed seeing and using the new hardware on Taz. Anchor bolts are much improved!

It's the toughest 5.4 I've ever lead. Pulling the roof is the tough part, but there's good pro. Take yer time and think it through.

I will never have the balls to lead this one, but certainly enjoyed a successful ascent on TR. I did try practicing gear placement while on TR and discovered I have much to learn. TR setup is easy, and rope abrasion is no problem if you extend the power point a few feet over the edge. I think this is an easier 5.9 considering it is at Devils Lake.

finally found a sequence that worked for me

chicken head, beyond muddy bowl, refrigerator door handle, and the clam shell

Burly! I'm not worthy to lead, but sure enjoyed the TR.

Got it fairly clean on my second try. Fun... I might try leading, but will stick clip to that second bolt fer sure. Tip: go right and get cozy with the chimney.

I forget if I had to hang...yeah, exhausted at the top I didn't quite finish and grabbed the draws.

I've top roped this one, and did a couple of mock trad leads on it before. Today, I led it and felt a bit foolish about halfway up as I began to contemplate the result of a fall. I was plugging in a #3 cam and noticed in the crack something that looked like a bear claw mark...gee...that must be where gear had pulled through before during a fall. Hmmm... well, at least there's a few good places for big hexes and that boosted the confidence a bit. Still, not a lead I think I'll repeat. Definitely will try it again on top rope and more mock leading, but thinking about how that soft limestone might not hold gear during a fall was gripping at times.

Nice series of three-finger pockets and then larger pockets at the top. I agree the last move is the toughest...I was on top rope just wondering how I would get a stance on lead to put draws on the anchors. Hanging the rope over the open hooks, as someone else suggested, would be easiest alright, but would wear out the anchors. Top rope was not-so-easy to setup: anchor self to tree, quick draws to the anchors and then extend the tree anchor to use as a backup for the open hooks. I give it a PG13 on top rope because falling mid-way will swing one into the opposite rock face. I managed to get this on my first try because I was scared of the penj...tried again later but could not repeat and took a swing toward the wall with no bad outcome.

Very tough start. After pulling the roof I did what felt like a swimming stroke to get my right hand up to a hold to make it on the ledge.