oldsalt's Logbook (33 ascents)

This is documented on a thread elsewhere on rc.com. Once I got first aid, I got back on the route and sent it as a TR. I like it.

I lead the route and partner Jimmy seconded to critique my placements. I thought I had it zipped up, but there were holes in both the pro and my thought processes.

My cams were good, as were my slung horns. We differed a bit on what constitutes a well slung horn, but not enough drop him. Now we get to the interesting part. I found an extrusion with a nice hole in it. I thought, "This will wow Jimmy." Then I pulled curve hex and dropped the eye into the hole. I clipped a draw through the eye and confirmed that the nut was sufficiently large to hold. I did not look for any other protection at that point, so I topped out.

Over an excellent Eggplant Parmagian in Rome that evening, we haggled over the last placement. Jimmy doesn't trust small extrusions in sandstone, and now I don't either. Better than that, as we argued the point I realized with [literate vocabulary]blinding clarity[/literate vocabulary] that I had been looking for a placement whenever I decided to protect a route. Sounds logical, but I should be looking for placementS when I decide to protect a route.

It was a stunning realization, and I hope one that indicates a growing maturity on my part. Thanks, Jimmy.

Fun, but too short. Scene of first lead fall that I witnessed.

I built a base anchor with a tree on one part of an equalized cord, with a pair of opposed nuts on the other part. The low part is nice, clean, and easy. The upper (crux) area seems at least the equal of Afterburner, the 5.5 at Foster Falls.

Some good moves for my limitations.

Out of my league, but a real learning experience.

Rested on the rope, but a large gain for my skill set.

Sooth sailing using my Guardian solo lead device.

I cruised up to the overhang and but then avoided pulling it and went right and up. I don't know what that leaves the route, but I doubt more than 5.9.

Great fun!

My first trad lead, if unplanned. I was busy, but not fearful - as ready to lead an easy trad route as I could hope to be.