omgtentacles's Logbook (16 ascents)

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Iron Man Roof popular Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	V3
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Flash ascent by: omgtentacles on 2012-05-22 (View Climbing Log)

V3, try not to land on beach goers

Pretty classic as far as V3 problems are concerned. Availability of the route can be tricky as people seek shade at the mouth of the cave. Those same people tend to leave garbage behind so feel free to bring a trash bag and help keep the crag enjoyable to future climbers. Crash pads are optional though consider bringing one if the sand is wet/packed.

Added: 2012-09-05

headstrong Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	V5
Safety Rating	PG13
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: omgtentacles on 2012-03-31 (View Climbing Log)

V5- or so?

My beta could be off but this feels really stiff for a V4 when starting on the horn undercling. It's fairly overhung and the first good hold past the crimp requires significant reach, precision, and body english (for someone around 5'9"). I used the small right crimp transitioning to the undercling handjam around the arete, and topped out with the left hand sloper. Bring a pad- the landing is angled downhill and has protruding rocks.

Added: 2012-08-27

The Slap Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	V4
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: omgtentacles on 2012-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

V4

Becomes pretty trivial once you figure out exact hand/foot placement. No pad necessary.

Added: 2012-08-27

The Swim Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	V3
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Flash ascent by: omgtentacles on 2012-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

V3

Try not to focus too much on the chalk marks as it'll throw off your beta. Tree branch can create a beached whale top out for people with beached whale builds.

Added: 2012-08-27

Bates Problem Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	V6
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: omgtentacles on 2012-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

V6, one-move wonder

Kind of a one-off problem though pretty fun the first time you try it. No pad necessary.

Added: 2012-08-27

The Spoon popular Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	V1
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: omgtentacles on 2012-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

V1

Top out seems to get a lot of people on the first try, myself included. Helps to be above 5'9" but can still be done statically by shorter people.

Added: 2012-08-27

V3 Reach Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	V3
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: omgtentacles on 2012-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

V3-

Mostly a balance-based problem. Pretty good for both tall and short people depending on hand/foot placement. Can be done statically.

Added: 2012-08-27

Waimea Wall Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	V1
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: omgtentacles on 2012-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

V1, bring a pad or spotter

Protection is pretty useful if you're not familiar with the top holds (there are good and bad spots). Pretty straightforward climb. Downclimb can be a bit awkward.

Added: 2012-08-27

Beak Traverse Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	V3
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: omgtentacles on 2012-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

V3-, definitely height dependent

Highly recommend trying to do this problem without much (if any) beta, as it's very fun to figure out. People under 5'9" should be either very flexible or reasonably strong. People 6' and over will probably find this problem to be V2-ish. No pad necessary.

Added: 2012-08-27

The Ramp Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	V4
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: omgtentacles on 2012-04-29 (View Climbing Log)

V4 seems fair (depending on start)

V3 if you stand start on the actual ramp holds, V4 if you start on the sloper/crimps. Painful rock to climb on (especially the topout).

Added: 2012-08-27

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