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prodigal_son's Logbook (15 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Weber-Davis Counties: SchoolRoom Wall: 9 The Great Flake

Tigers on Vaseline *** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: prodigal_son on 2012-11-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Excellent winter day up on the schoolroom

good stuff! took a few efforts to figure out the elusive sequence. It's been too long.

Added: 2012-12-08

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Weber-Davis Counties: The Seven: The Seven

Born to Run Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: prodigal_son on 2010-11-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good stuff.

ditto.

Added: 2010-11-12

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Weber-Davis Counties: Ogden Canyon: The Cantina

La Cantina Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: prodigal_son on 2010-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Freed

Climbed Free at 5.11+ R. Awesome route/position/moves. Sketchy Rock.

Added: 2010-11-12

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Weber-Davis Counties: SchoolRoom Wall: 4 The Basement

Pass of Flail *** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: prodigal_son on 2010-09-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome

This classic has it all. Powerfull moves, good gear, perfect rock, great position and exposure. It is only 11+ - not any harder.

Added: 2010-09-26

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Weber-Davis Counties: SchoolRoom Wall: 2 Asbury Park

The Traditionalist Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: prodigal_son on 2010-09-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Renamed the "Traditionalist" 5.11+

Possibly the best trad route at schoolroom.


Added: 2010-09-26

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Weber-Davis Counties: SchoolRoom Wall: 13 Taylor's Corner Area

Boxelder Salsa ** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: prodigal_son on 2010-05-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars one of ogden's better 5.10 trad routes

bolt is about 20' up. protection is good and easy to find the whole way, though the bolted face can be a little spicy at 5.8. Not as difficult as it looks. Four stars for schoolroom trad.

Added: 2010-05-22

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Weber-Davis Counties: SchoolRoom Wall: 13 Taylor's Corner Area

Taylors Corner ** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: prodigal_son on 2010-05-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Possibly the best moderate trad route in Ogden

Climbs up the improbable (for 5.7/8) face directly under the two old pins place right next to each other about 30 feet up. Climb slightly higher than the pins and turn the arete. Continue up the dihedral. Protection is tricky. The two old pins can be backed up with a purple camalot sized piece. Probably not recommended for the beginning trad leader. One 70m rope works. A single 60m should too - just watch the ends closely.

Added: 2010-05-22

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Weber-Davis Counties: SchoolRoom Wall: 13 Taylor's Corner Area

Laurel Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: prodigal_son on 2010-05-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Pinkpointed it yesterday. Not sure it counts as the FFA.

As a trad route, this thing is awesome, though the gear is pretty difficult to get oriented so that it's trustworthy enough. Even so, the gear is not that bomber. With preplaced gear, it felt about 5.11b. Placing it on lead (still waiting for the first redpoint ascent) it would probably feel about 5.11d. You can place the gear after doing Boxelder Salsa while lowering back down.

Colby W

Added: 2010-05-22

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Weber-Davis Counties: SchoolRoom Wall: 10 Main Schoolroom Wall

Psyche Corner * Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: prodigal_son on 2009-11-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars The book is wrong on this one

Starts just above Hype Dependent. Goes up and left to a ledge/flake the up and right to a good belay at a ledge. More up and right to a thin headwall crack 5.8. The thing the book calls Psyche Corner is more like 5.11b R and really good as well

Added: 2010-02-14

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Weber-Davis Counties: SchoolRoom Wall: 10 Main Schoolroom Wall

Shiny Demon *** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: prodigal_son on 2008-12-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars And he said, "Play the best song in the world or I'll eat your soul."

This is about as good as crack climbing gets in Ogden. If Rocketsauce (11c) dissuades you because of its difficulty (and it is polished, committing and stout) then maybe you could start up Creamgenes (10d) to the left and build a belay midway. It is probably possible to aid through the crux of Creamgenes (the flare at the bottom) and keep the whole route at sustained 5.9 with only a few points of aid.

Added: 2008-12-12

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