rjbonz's Logbook (15 ascents)

Descend Alfred Gully. as you come to the gully's opening at the base of the cliff, but before you down climb the little boulder section, look to your right. You will see a bolted route. This is Wide Load. To the right of Wide Load is a crack and continuing line of weakness. This is Vanna. Ascend the route. Just short of the cliff top, you can safely traverse left to the anchor station atop Wide load and rappel from there. This is a very easy 5.7 with only one 5.7 move.

The route is located in the Central Zone. Descend Falling Tom gully and walk north. The route is marked by a yellow '16b.' The route starts at a ledge. This ledge is approximately a meter above the trail proper. The route follows the obvious book fold with a crack that runs continuously up the fold. The crack will end at a prominent bulge. To the left is a ledge with a large tree. This is your exit.

To the left of the prominent arch that constitutes Harlequin is a series of large and blocky right facing features. It looks downright ugly, but looks deceive. Climb through these left facing features, tending left. As you approach the cliff top, traverse right to the Fixe anchors. This is a good introductory trad route that offers good practice in rope management over relatively well protected terrain.

At the left end of Morphine Ledge Wall is is chute. This prominent line of weakness starts through broken terrain and tends in a generally left direction over broken terrain. The lower section of the route can be a bit spooky; test the holds before using them. However, half way up, the route gives way to solid terrain. You will top out at a ledge just below the cliff top. Belay here. Rappelling from where you belayed your partner up is problematic, as it is a less than optimal wrap location. To depart the route are two options: 1) ascend the obvious line of weakness to the cliff top; 2) down climb to the ledge one meter below where you belayed and rappel at the wrap station.

The route starts at yellow marker '33c.' To the right of this is a fallen over pillar that rests against the main wall. Climb the face to the overhangs. At this point, you can go either left or right. Move right under the pillar-style roof. Pull the multi-feature crux (roof, right facing corner and arching crack) to a ledge. If you are tall, getting started at the crux will prove interesting. If you are short, the upper section of the crux will be your challenge. No worries either way, as the pro is good through here and can always have a solid piece above you.

From the ledge just below the tree that is sitting on a higher ledge, you can traverse left and up to a tree and belay from here. Once your follower has ascended, you can climb the easy terrain to the cliff top. Option B is to traverse right to the Fixe anchors atop Second Agreement. Alternatively, at the ledge, you can traverse right to the Fixe anchors atop Second Agreement.

Starts at marker #49. Ascend the varied terrain up to a crack that sits in a right facing corner. Continue up the incipient crack to the roof. Pull the roof. Fixed wrap station. An alternate 5.6 variation: same start. Ascend the arching left facing corner (is immediately to the right of the right facing corner. The arching crack and right facing corner converge 1/2 way up the route. Traverse left at the incipient crack. Gain the ledge to the left. Ascend to the 2nd ledge and traverse right to the wrap station. Both variations are quite good.

The route information is generally correct. At the chasm gain the wall. Step right and ascend the line of weakness to a corner with a fist crack. Ascend the flakes. Once at the roof, traverse left and pull the large flake (5.7 move) to the ledge where the wrap station is. Solid rock. Good protection throughout. It is a sustained, high quality line. One of the best at Nemo.

This route resides on the north end of the Camel Wall. It is just left of J-Bean, which is marked by a yellow, '47.' At the start is a slight bulge. This connects to a very clean, left arching flake. This flake terminates at a roof. The original version of this route (as I was told) continued right of this roof, through easier climbing. However, a more fun (and 5.9) variation is to ascend the crack in the roof and continue up the face past two bolts to the fixed anchor. Excellent route!

Mt. Nemo hosts a many, very accessible, easy to moderate trad routes. This route is no exception. The route is technically straight forward and very easy to protect. This is a great route for the introductory trad climber. From Gooseberry Gully, go right. You will almost immediately come to a prominent, left facing corner. The south facing wall of this corner is where the route is located. Ascend the obvious line of weakness. Someone removed the hangers from the anchor. So there are two options for descent: 1) rappel from a tree; 2) walk north to G-berry gully and walk down.