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sabey's Logbook (18 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: White Rock Spring Area: Angel Food Wall

Tunnel Vision (R) popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sabey on 2009-02-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun

Fun route, with a 70m rope, I think this could have been reduced to 4 pitches. We did it in 5 pitches with a 60m, easily. Also, we averaged only about 4 or 5 pieces per pitch of protection. We didn't have anything larger than a BD #4, and a lot of the crack up there is big.

Added: 2009-02-23

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Right of the Roof

Tangerine Dream popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sabey on 2009-01-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Enjoyable 11a

Overall good route. The first 5 clips are mediocre, but the top makes up for it.

Added: 2009-01-18

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Right of the Roof

Power Play Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sabey on 2009-01-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Tricky start

The difficult part is getting to the 2nd bolt. After that it all gets easier. Watch a groundfall during the crux after the first bolt.

Added: 2009-01-18

Routes: North America: United States: California: Bishop and Eastern Sierra: Pine Creek: Mustache Wall

Becky Route Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sabey on 2008-10-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good warmup

A good warmup route with straight forward moves. This is one of the easiest sport routes in the area.

Added: 2008-10-20

Routes: North America: United States: California: Bishop and Eastern Sierra: Pine Creek: Ecstacy Area (Pratt's Ck Area)

Sheila Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sabey on 2008-10-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic

This is a must-do classic. I was conned into leading this route 9 months into climbing with only having 10 leads of <5.8 climbing. The protection is good and the route is commiting and fantastic. It is one of the purest lines I have seen in the area on a laser-cut dihedral. I highly recommend it. A 100m rope will let you rap in one shot just barely. (Took twice and french-freed a few times.)

Added: 2008-10-20

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Metro Sector

Metro Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sabey on 2008-09-27 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good for the grade

Two cruxes, as others have said. Good quality route on good rock.

Added: 2008-09-28

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Real Hidden Valley: Hidden Tower

Sail Away popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sabey on 2008-09-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Good, safe climb

I led this route on my first day of trad leading. It's a great route for inexperienced leaders because there is so much good protection available. Great view from the top. Overall a great experience for a noob trad leader. Others are right though, there is a lot of finger tape in the cracks of this climb.

Added: 2008-09-22

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: Holcomb Valley Pinnacles: Coyote Crag

Golden Spike Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sabey on 2008-09-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great climb

I personally think this is the best climb on Coyote Crag wall. It gave me the most pump and biggest challenge. It's well protected, and more sustained then other routes on the wall. If being compared to other climbs on the same wall or in the same area it has to be given a 10c rating. At one point I did down climb for 3 feet to regroup and regain my composure.

Added: 2008-09-15

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: Holcomb Valley Pinnacles: Coyote Crag

High Noon Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sabey on 2008-09-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Commiting crux

I thought the bolts on this route weren't especially well placed. Getting to the next clip after the crux seems a little runout. The crux is commiting, but worth pushing yourself for.

Added: 2008-09-15

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Bernardino County: Holcomb Valley Pinnacles: Motherlode Rock (E. Face)

Fire In The Hole Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sabey on 2008-09-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun and fairly soft 10b

I thought this route wasn't very difficult as compared to any of the 10a's around this crag. It gets a little thin at the top, but the holds are there. Not too pumpy.

Added: 2008-09-15

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