salamanizer's Logbook (537 ascents)

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Beggars Buttress Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11c
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

Ants

This route was pretty grungy and had a couple good pitches. However those few good pitches were completely covered with pissed off ants swarming out of every crack and tree. A great route to recommend to those who you rather dislike.

Added: 2012-09-05

Ghost in the Machine Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.12a
Safety Rating	R
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-03-31 (View Climbing Log)

Wild

Done the first couple pitches several times but never got on the last one. This is the windiest route at the loaf besides maybe Bolee Gold. Anyway, the wind finally calmed down this time and I finished the route. Pretty wild on that arete.

Added: 2012-05-31

Sea of Holds Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.9
Safety Rating	R
Exposure
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

fun

The first two pitches were excellent slab climbing on really good granite. The rest was a steaming pile of shit.

Added: 2012-05-31

Beacons to Mars Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10d
Safety Rating	R
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

To the top

Finally climbed this thing to the top. Replaced most of the bad bolts on the way and beefed up all the anchors. Linked pitches 6 and 7 in the cottrell guide. Funky pitch that is. You head up the big headwall strait up going either right (past old bolt) and up that thin corner (good gear) or walking the thin ledge out left. Don't worry the anchors are up there. You just can't see them until you get there. The rest of the route is pretty casual. The lead bolts on pitch 8 still need replaced but the climbing is easy and you don't really need them except to stay on route.

Added: 2012-05-31

Lightning Bolt Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11a
Safety Rating	R
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-05-05 (View Climbing Log)

Thin

Pretty thin and techy starting moves. A few sketchy moves up higher to keep your attention as well.

Added: 2012-05-31

Medicine Man Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11a
Safety Rating	R
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 0000-00-00 (View Climbing Log)

Ok

Some pretty sketchy first few pitches lead to much more mellow climbing above. Some of the bolts above the headwall could use an upgrading though none of them are super horrible. 1/4in bolts on stainless hangers. At least they aren't spinning Leepers eh? Well, most of them aren't anyway. The runnout on the last pitch is death if you fall. Fortunately it's pretty easy 5.7ish. Unfortunately there's a water streak that goes right through it I had to climb through. Thought I was going for the big bouncy roll.

Added: 2012-05-31

end of the rainbow Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10d
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

Wide

First pitch is longer and steeper than it looks but not too difficult. Second pitch has a wide flare that is short but a little physical then some good fist jamming. The third pitch is an overhanging bombay chimney that starts out easy but is really hard to exit. After exiting the squeeze you pull over an overhang and into flairing tight fingers in a corner. Excellent route. The rest looks like shit.

Added: 2012-05-31

Sugar Plum Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11c
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-01-27 (View Climbing Log)

janky ass bolts

The crux bolt is the worst. A tricky start to some decent climbing then a preplexing crux. A bit sandbagged at .11a.
Short, maybe 35 ft.

Added: 2012-02-10

East Face Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.12a
Safety Rating	PG13
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-02-04 (View Climbing Log)

Thin

Burly thin face moves. The bolts probably could use an updating. A cam or two from fingers to about 2" could be used for the easier climbing past the last bolt. The Falcon guide calls this route 5.11a but there is no way a sane person could truthfully call it .11a.

Added: 2012-02-10

Lurch Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.8
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2010-02-10 (View Climbing Log)

Nothing special

Really, nothing special. Some easy stuff to some bolts, a move or two, more easy stuff and an anchor. Much easier climbing on the second pitch if that's what it is.

Added: 2012-02-10

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