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sclaussen's Logbook (17 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Tuolumne Meadows: Puppy Dome: west facing wall, lower

Puppy Crack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sclaussen on 2009-08-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Puppy Crack Lead

I'm a new leader and I found this pretty challenging until I was farther up the crack and could get in some good hand jams. I was also surprised at the variety of protection that it took. It is pretty short but definitely worth doing.

Added: 2009-08-12

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Tollhouse Rock: Tollhouse Rock

Tollhouse Traverse popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sclaussen on 2009-05-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Traverse Ascent

I'm a new leader - this was my fourth multi-pitch lead - and I highly recommend the route - it was very enjoyable. We didn't start until 1PM, the route is west facing, so it was very hot, particularly pitch #1. The route eats up protection from very small to my BD #4. The descent approach is not a problem if you have good beta - I've added a photo that outlines the upper half of the descent. We did 4 pitches - the first 3 are the majority of the climb and all are interesting in their own way. The first pitch has 3 bolts/hangers on it about 75% of the way up the route. The first belay station isn't the most comfortable one, but each belay station along the entire route has two hangers. The crux is on the 3rd pitch where you have to go over a dihedral - there's plenty there to help you get over it. When you are over, you traverse the crack horizontally until you see a crack going up to the right. Great climb - get out and do it!

Added: 2009-05-27

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Sequoia National Park: Little baldy

Boone/LaRue Route Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sclaussen on 2009-05-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Boone/LaRue Ascent

I am a beginning leader and I found this to be a really good route to get some beginning lead experience on. Getting to the route is a bit of a challenge - you should park at a small pullout down the road from the primary hiking trail and then bush whack through the woods to the base of the crag - hang a left and walk around until the route comes into view on the left side of the crag. The first pitch is the harder of the three, second is easier barring a single crux move, and the third is probably class 3 or 4. It took a variety of protection, everything from BD4 down to much smaller stuff, and was very protectable. The climbing wasn't very challenging making it a good spot to work on placing protection, building belay anchors, etc. You descend down the maintained trail back to the road about a quarter mile from where you park for the ascent.

Added: 2009-05-27

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Kernville Slab: Kernville Rock aka Kernville S

lieback (Immaculate White Book) Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sclaussen on 2009-05-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Immaculate White Book Ascent

I just lead this route over the weekend and I thought it was a great route. However, I am a new leader and I did think that 5.5 was a little bit of a sandbagged rating - it's harder than that - so beware if you're a new leader. I made it fine, but it was challenging. I found that it took a lot of smaller (< BD#1) protection - and the anchor takes smaller protection as well - so rack accordingly. There are no bolts at the first belay station and it only supports two people at a time. The first pitch crux is 75% of the way through the pitch where the lieback crack disappears for 3 to 5 feet. I followed on the second pitch - it has a similar crux - that's more difficult than the first crux - where the lieback crack disappears for 5 feet or so. On the 2nd pitch we went straight up then left on the undercling and then up a crack to top out. One of my climbing partners who lead the 2nd pitch felt it was more difficult than pitch 2 - particularly placing pro while traversing the undercling. We were told we could walk off the right side - but it looked like dicey class 4 - so we decided to rappel. There are two relatively new rappel bolts/chains at the top of pitch 2 that get you down to another couple bolts/chains near the top of pitch 1. The granite quality here is excellent.

Added: 2009-05-27

Routes: North America: United States: California: Sacramento Area: Cosumnes River Gorge: Bucks Bar Dome

Adhesion Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: sclaussen on 2009-03-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good face route

I thought this was a really good route. There are two anchors at the top - one for test piece and one for adhesion. We used the test piece anchor for adhesion and other than a bit of rope wear, it worked well. If you are in the area and have test piece roped up - jump over and climb this one - it's a nice route.

Added: 2009-03-29

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Francisco Bay: Handley Rock: Handleys Rock

Left Crack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: sclaussen on 2009-03-13 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Left Crack Ascent

A friend and I went out and tried this a couple days ago and although relatively short it's not a bad little climb. On the bottom half of the crack, you can do a lie back (to the right with your feet on the left side of the crack). To top rope the crack use the two bolts farthest from the steps that lead you to the top of the rock.

Added: 2009-03-15

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Francisco Bay: Ring Mountain: Split Rock

Face Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sclaussen on 2008-11-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A few face routes

Z and I climbed the 3 cracks on the face, enjoyable.

Added: 2008-11-07

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