semicolin's Logbook (16 ascents)

good

Heinous approach

We were the only ones on this route. Ice conditions on the headwall were a little sketchy. We got there at 11am and water was running under the thin layer of ice. I traversed left center to get to better ice. Steeper than I thought it would've been. Perhaps the regular route goes through the ice "coneheads" to the right of the headwall where it looked less steep. Mark & I took 3 days. More info here: http://my.opera.com/semicolin1/blog/show.dml/412246

easy scrambling, worth doing for an easy day or if you're heading back from the shark's nose.

great exposure and excellent views. We were lucky to be the only ones on the peak that day (weather was iffy).

Kept my eye on snow conditions for a couple years and couldn't work my schedule around the times it was "in" until this year. Actually would consider this AI3-/M2 if snow conditions are right. We soloed the route & carried a rope just to slow us down.

Partnered with Wes. Was my first aid climb and first wall-style climb, so it was slow. bivied one night on route and again at the top. Very cold in November, but we didn't have to share it with anyone the weekend after Thanksgiving.

Rack:
1 set DMM Peenuts (small offsets; large offsets would've been nice)
3 sets Nuts
1 set Ballnuts
2 ea Cams sized 0.33"-1.6" (8mm-41mm, i.e. Camalots 0.1-0.75; a 3rd set would be nice)
1 ea Cams sized 1.2"-4.5" (30mm-115mm, i.e. Camalots 1-4)
1 set Small, med, large Leeper cam hooks (used large once)
2 ea BD Cliffhangers & Talons (not used)
2 Cordellete
20 Slings (didn't need this many)
1 Double-length sling
50 Carabiners (2 on each sling & a handfull of non-slung)

Actually, we had a couple debaucles in the Garnet Canyon area. But we finally ascended via the Owen-Spaulding route.

http://my.opera.com/semicolin1/blog/show.dml/406580

We meant to climb the Exum ridge, but bailed after the lower half because of time. We hit up the Owen-Spaulding the next day.

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