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setageus's Logbook (2 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (76)



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Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Shuteye Ridge: Gray Eagle

Escher's Way Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: setageus on 2009-10-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars FA

Suggested Pro: Double sets of cams from very thin to 3, one 4" cam, set of nuts, many long slings.
-P1 (5.8) Climb crack.
-P2 (10c/10d) Climb crack out of belay and head left to cross flakes which connect to right facing corner and face above (face has two protection bolts).
-P3 (10c) Climb right leaning crack about 30 then leftward climb over roof using long runners to avoid rope drag! Take diagonal finger traverse left across face to gain belay nook.
-P4 (10a/b) Head up flakes and cracks to right facing corner and obvious ramp up and left. Follow face to another right-facing crack above which curves rightward and up. Long slings again recommended.
-P5 Climb diagonally left out of belay through face with a protection bolt, then farther horizontally left to better knobs. W/in 25-30 feet from belay, start heading directly up where the climbing eases to big pro-able knobs. To prevent rope drag, good to belay at first good ledge with decent crack for natural gear.
-Last pitch is longer than one rope length, so either look for great belay where terrain eases with numerous chicken heads and eventually slab w/rarer cracks to pro, or simulclimb when rope goes taut.

Added: 2010-03-16

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Shuteye Ridge: Gray Eagle

Book of Spring Pages Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: setageus on 2009-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Beautiful Corner

First climbed left around big boulder, then climbed slight off-width which goes shortly to base of Beautiful corner. Next time, hiked right of big boulder to begin off top of it in the slight off-width. Enjoyed latter way best. Climbed again just to alcove above hand/fist crack, below roof. Rapped off fixed pro. Felt like .10. Next time, climbed right under big roof along crusty, lichen covered rock w/some loose stuff, finding natural pro, bumped up corner of roof for very fun 5.8/.9 moves. Rapped from 2nd anchors of Dream within a Dream. Also, the description of the start is farther than 50 feet left of Art of Life.

Added: 2010-03-02