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speedywon's Logbook (167 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Far East

Filthy Sanchez Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: speedywon on 2008-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Filthy Sanchez

Sustained, then, balancy climbing, with a reach dependent crux. If you are 6-2, and can casual reach to a cripmp midway, this route might feel like a 5.11-. At 6-0, the deadpoint felt like 12a to me. If shorter, you'd have to dino to the crimp, making it harder yet.
*Beware of a lost block and a lavender colored loose flake right next to each other.

Added: 2008-06-02

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Magoo Rock

Heavy Stigmatism Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: speedywon on 2008-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Heavy Stigmatism

Very casual start, 2 power (and painful) moves to clip and move up, then jugs to the anchors.

Added: 2008-06-02

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Magoo Rock

Mr. Charlie Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: speedywon on 2008-05-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Mr. Charlie

Some of the most enjoyable laybacking I've done. Might be fun to try the lower flake section on trad gear.

Added: 2008-06-02

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: The North Forty

Lavender Eye popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: speedywon on 2008-05-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Lavender Eye

5.8 slab to a powerful 3-4 move sequence.

Added: 2008-06-02

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Far East

King Kong Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: speedywon on 2008-03-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars King Kong

Generally good rock, but it felt like 1 or two flakes flexed down low. Pumpy.

Added: 2008-03-03

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Far East

Plumb-Bob Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: speedywon on 2008-03-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Plumb-Bob

Wasn't expecting the mantel moves. They were a nice suprise. Hand-crack was fun, but way too short.

Added: 2008-03-03

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Far East

The Farrier Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: speedywon on 2008-03-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars The Farrier

Very classic moves of a thin diehedral. The crux has no feet to speak of. I agree with zeubanks about the traverse. I'd suggest stepping back and inclipping the 1st bolt of the traverse after the 2nd is clipped (or use a long runner). Otherwise, you'll have some wicked rope drag.



Added: 2008-03-03

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Roman Wall

Ceasar's Tossed Salad Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: speedywon on 2008-03-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ceasar's Tossed Salad

Nice view from the upper section of the giant overhang of Maximus. Lots of perfect edges to pick from. Stay right of the anchor to finish.

Added: 2008-03-03

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Confederate Cracks

Message to Hair Man Back Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: speedywon on 2008-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Message to Harry Back Man

Needs cleaning. The lichen made it seam more difficult than it really was. Be ware of the lose plate on around the anchors.

Added: 2008-03-03

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: The North Forty

Sonny Jim Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: speedywon on 2008-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sonny Jim

Casual slab in a 1-move-wonder slab crux, then pull on jugs through the roof. Very cool "here pose" clipping position pulling onto the final headwall.

Added: 2008-03-03

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