Routes : Reviews
speedywon's Logbook (167 ascents)
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Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Far East
Filthy Sanchez Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.12a |
Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by: speedywon on 2008-05-30
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Filthy Sanchez
Sustained, then, balancy climbing, with a reach dependent crux. If you are 6-2, and can casual reach to a cripmp midway, this route might feel like a 5.11-. At 6-0, the deadpoint felt like 12a to me. If shorter, you'd have to dino to the crimp, making it harder yet.
*Beware of a lost block and a lavender colored loose flake right next to each other.
*Beware of a lost block and a lavender colored loose flake right next to each other.
Added: 2008-06-02
Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Magoo Rock
Heavy Stigmatism Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by: speedywon on 2008-05-30
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Heavy Stigmatism
Very casual start, 2 power (and painful) moves to clip and move up, then jugs to the anchors.
Added: 2008-06-02
Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Magoo Rock
Mr. Charlie Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by: speedywon on 2008-05-23
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Mr. Charlie
Some of the most enjoyable laybacking I've done. Might be fun to try the lower flake section on trad gear.
Added: 2008-06-02
Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: The North Forty
Lavender Eye popular Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.12a |
Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by: speedywon on 2008-05-29
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Lavender Eye
5.8 slab to a powerful 3-4 move sequence.
Added: 2008-06-02
Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Far East
King Kong Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: speedywon on 2008-03-02
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King Kong
Generally good rock, but it felt like 1 or two flakes flexed down low. Pumpy.
Added: 2008-03-03
Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Far East
Plumb-Bob Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: speedywon on 2008-03-02
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Plumb-Bob
Wasn't expecting the mantel moves. They were a nice suprise. Hand-crack was fun, but way too short.
Added: 2008-03-03
Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Far East
The Farrier Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.12a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Red Point ascent by: speedywon on 2008-03-02
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The Farrier
Very classic moves of a thin diehedral. The crux has no feet to speak of. I agree with zeubanks about the traverse. I'd suggest stepping back and inclipping the 1st bolt of the traverse after the 2nd is clipped (or use a long runner). Otherwise, you'll have some wicked rope drag.
Added: 2008-03-03
Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Roman Wall
Ceasar's Tossed Salad Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: speedywon on 2008-03-02
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Ceasar's Tossed Salad
Nice view from the upper section of the giant overhang of Maximus. Lots of perfect edges to pick from. Stay right of the anchor to finish.
Added: 2008-03-03
Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Confederate Cracks
Message to Hair Man Back Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: speedywon on 2008-03-01
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Message to Harry Back Man
Needs cleaning. The lichen made it seam more difficult than it really was. Be ware of the lose plate on around the anchors.
Added: 2008-03-03
Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: The North Forty
Sonny Jim Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: speedywon on 2008-03-01
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Sonny Jim
Casual slab in a 1-move-wonder slab crux, then pull on jugs through the roof. Very cool "here pose" clipping position pulling onto the final headwall.
Added: 2008-03-03