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tanthalas39's Logbook (21 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: McDowell Mountains: Sven Slab

Ego Trip Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tanthalas39 on 2007-01-28 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Typical slab climbing

Typical but fun slab climb.

Added: 2008-10-06

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: McDowell Mountains: Sven Slab

I Sinkso Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tanthalas39 on 2007-01-28 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Scary first section

Highball first bolt.

Added: 2008-10-06

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: McDowell Mountains: Sven Slab

Quaker Oats popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tanthalas39 on 2007-01-28 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun climb

Did this last year. Easy climb up a slab. Belay ledge big enough to bring other people up.

Added: 2008-10-06

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Southern: Mt. Lemmon: Ridgeline

Wind of Change Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tanthalas39 on 2008-10-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars GREAT climb - fun, tricky, well-protected

This was my favorite of the three I've done so far at this crag. Excellent climbing up perfect rock. A little overhang made things interesting, but the holds are all there. Seven bolts to chain anchors. While the anchor stance is awkward, I don't really agree that the face climbing from the last bolt is 5.10 - *maybe* 5.8 at the most. Don't let this scare you, anyways. Graded 5.7+ in the book, this is probably accurate still. Fifth climb from the left.

Added: 2008-10-06

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Southern: Mt. Lemmon: Ridgeline

Two Birds With One Stone Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tanthalas39 on 2008-10-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Excellent route, fun moves

Led this on a perfect day. The moves were fun, the views were fantastic. Green's "Rock Climbing Arizona" guide (1999) says this is left of a lone pine; I believe said pine has since fallen. Pretty easy to find as the sixth route from the left - boulder up a groove to the first bolt. Six bolts to chain anchors - anchor stance is awkward.

Added: 2008-10-06

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Southern: Mt. Lemmon: Ridgeline

Never To Be The Same Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: tanthalas39 on 2008-10-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Good fun, sandbagged a little

Fourth route from the left. From the guidebook, "a slab start to an easy overhang". Seven bolts to chain anchors. Guide book says 5.6; I think this is sandbagged. I thought the overhang was a bit more than a 5.6, but good fun all around. My wife Leanne led this; I toproped it afterwards.

Added: 2008-10-06

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Camelback Mountain: Praying Monk

East Face popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tanthalas39 on 2006-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great climb

I've climbed this a bunch of times, so adding for posterity.

After scrambling up the 4th class on the far east/north side of the headwall (the first part of it you encounter on the hike up), or climbing up one of the other headwall routes, hike around to the east side (the uphill corner, farthest from headwall). Belay spot and bolted route are obvious. Up to the first bolt is the crux at 5.6, after that is easy fun 5.3 or so on well-bolted conglomorate. Anchor bolts at top, plus a huge bomber ring provided by the AMC (word up AMC). Rap off the southeast side, a 60m rope does just fine (the comment below was for rapping off the northwest side, which is much longer).

Added: 2008-02-16

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Camelback Mountain: Headwall

The Walk Up Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.3
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: tanthalas39 on 2008-02-16 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Climbed many times, posterity recording

Easy climb to left of Rappel Gully. I use this to scramble up solo to toprope Rappel for new people, but you can scoot even farther left and get some true 4th class scrambling. A couple bolts, experienced climbers won't need them but I suppose they're useful for new lead climbers.

Added: 2008-02-16

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Camelback Mountain: Headwall

Rappel Gully Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tanthalas39 on 2008-02-16 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars Have done many times, just adding for posterity

Not a very good climb, only great for getting down from the Monk or higher climbs. I used to take beginners on this; now I would *much* rather take newbies on either Sleazy Street or Rain of Terror, even if they are harder climbs. This one only has 20 feet of real climbing and is rather boring.

Added: 2008-02-16

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Camelback Mountain: Headwall

Sleazy Street popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tanthalas39 on 2008-02-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun climb but very loose

Easy 5.7. Well protected with a fun one-move bulge crux. I was raining down gravel on my belayer the entire time, and towards the top I pulled off a fist-sized hold (almost peeling myself) and had to frantically warn my belayer, who should have definitely had a helmet. I think even with a lot more traffic, this route will be loose for a long time. 60m rope easily reached bottom.

Added: 2008-02-16

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