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tyler's Logbook (41 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Universe Wall

The Devil Made Me Do It Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-22 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Under Rated

Like other climbers have said, it's more like 5.9, and for people even shorter than myself, 5.10 would be fair.

Added: 2016-10-22

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Lost Wall (Upper Devils)

Handsome Devil Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-15 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Decent route, hard on rope

Like the previous poster said, this route is hard on your rope. Best case scenario, everything goes fine but you'll put 10 climbs worth of abrasion onto your rope just from pulling the rope down when you're done. Worst case scenario, you'll do like we did, and get your rope completely stuck trying to pull it down. Recovering the rope was a major pain in the ass. In fact, unless your rope is going to be replaced soon anyway, just climb another route.

Added: 2016-10-15

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Little England Wall (Road Area

The Mighty Barge Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Quite fun

First pitch = .10b sport, second pitch = 5.5 trad. More exposure and better scenery than down in the Atlantis canyon. I did manage to knock a pizza-slice sized flake off by barely hitting it with my helmet. Luckily it missed my belayer. I'd recommend belaying to the right, rather than directly underneath the leader. This climb might not get enough ascents to be fully cleaned of its loose/dangerous exfoliates.

Added: 2016-10-11

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Atlantis (The Road Area)

Sir Charles Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Really Fun

I don't know why, but I really had fun on this one. It's pretty much the same as any other route in Atlantis, but for some reason I thought it was really fun. Had nothing to do with how I was climbing, as I was hitting everything that day. Might be more like .9+. Regardless, really fun.

Added: 2016-10-11

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Atlantis (The Road Area)

KGB Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun

Spoiler alert: The crux is moving from the final bolt to the chains. Low to Zero fall consequence at that point, so go for it! If you maintain center of gravity absolutely over the bolt line, you're looking at an .11+ crux. If you move center of gravity about 1 1/2 ft to the right, to a left-angling seam, you keep the rating at .10b. A crusty older climber that was there told me that, and I agree with him. I inspected said options.

Added: 2016-10-11

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Atlantis (The Road Area)

Grumpy after Eight Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun

Might be more like .9+

Added: 2016-10-11

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Atlantis (The Road Area)

Impending Doom Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun

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Added: 2016-10-11

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Atlantis (The Road Area)

Feast and Famine Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun

I missed the onsite the weekend before. Got the redpoint this past weekend. Being confident in my ratings judgement and having found the easiest sequence that is still true to the bolt line, I'd rate this at more like .10d or .10+

Added: 2016-10-11

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Central: Granite Mountain: Swamp Slabs

Debut Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: tyler on 2016-09-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Very Fun

As the Bill Cramer guide says, "easier than it looks."

Added: 2016-09-18

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: McDowell Mountains: Sven Slab

One for the Road Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: tyler on 2016-09-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun. Up and down.

Getting to the base was a little tricky. Even getting back to my car, I couldn't stay on a trail.

Added: 2016-09-18

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