Routes : Reviews
wigglestick's Logbook (8 ascents)
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Unknown Tag: 'Title' Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Onsight ascent by: wigglestick on 2003-11-18
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Ascent Note
Nice short outing. Bring extra .75-2 camalots.
Added: 2003-11-18
Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Second Pullout: Black Corridor
Rebel Without a Pause popular Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Onsight ascent by: wigglestick on 2003-11-15
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Ascent Note
Steep and fun. More like a boulder problem than anything else. Keep going. There are jugs up there.
Added: 2003-11-15
Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Zion National Park: Moonlight Buttress
Moonlight Buttress (C1) popular Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Hang Dog ascent by: wigglestick on 2002-11-27
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Ascent Note
Route can be done in 7 pitches with 60m rope. See www.bigwall.com topo.
Bring 3-5 sets of TCU's depending on how comfortable you are leapfrogging cams. The most crucial pieces are the yellow, orange and red TCUs. Single set of #1-#4 Camalots. 2 sets of nuts. 1-2 sets of HB brass offsets (You won't use anything smaller than a #4) 1-2 sets of HB Aluminum Offsets would be helpful.
Bring 3-5 sets of TCU's depending on how comfortable you are leapfrogging cams. The most crucial pieces are the yellow, orange and red TCUs. Single set of #1-#4 Camalots. 2 sets of nuts. 1-2 sets of HB brass offsets (You won't use anything smaller than a #4) 1-2 sets of HB Aluminum Offsets would be helpful.
Added: 2002-11-27
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: South Platte Area: Turkey Rocks: Turkey Perch
Gobble Up Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Onsight ascent by: wigglestick on 2002-04-14
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2002-04-14
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: South Platte Area: Turkey Rocks: Turkey Perch
Honky Jam Ass Crack Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Onsight ascent by: wigglestick on 2002-04-14
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2002-04-14
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: South Platte Area: Turkey Rocks: Turkey Perch
Left-Handed Jew Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Onsight ascent by: wigglestick on 2002-04-14
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2002-04-14
Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: South Platte Area: Turkey Rocks: Turkey Perch
Ragger Bagger Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Onsight ascent by: wigglestick on 2002-04-14
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2002-04-14
Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Zion National Park: Angels Landing
Prodigal Son IV 5.9 C2 popular Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Flash ascent by: wigglestick on 2002-03-27
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Ascent Note
We did this route in one very long day. We planned on fixing a couple of pitches the day before but didn't get to Zion early enough. We left the Watchman Campground at 4:30 am and started climbing at about 6:00. We were lucky that the soloist, who technically beat us to the start of the route, allowed us to start first so he wouldn't slow us down.
We passed two parties who were not even out of bed yet. Somehow we got screwed up by a crappy topo and ended up doing an extra short pitch. From the top of pitch 3 do not stop at the first set of anchors of the fourth pitch. Keep going up to the anchors that are inside the dihedral above. Then do the super long 5th pitch to the end of the bolt ladder below the C1 crack. Don't stop at the intermediate anchors at the bottom of the bolt ladder.
We topped out just before midnight after about 18 hours of climbing. We were going slow so don't let that discourage you from attempting it in a day. It is totally doable by an experienced party.
Also, be careful when climbing the 5.4 chimney and the scramble pitch at the top to not dislodge any rocks. I was with 3 feet of getting creamed by a small TV sized boulder which fell from the top. It hit the ledge right next to the haulbag and exploded. I was lucky that a partially chopped haul line was the only casualty. All in all excellent route.
We passed two parties who were not even out of bed yet. Somehow we got screwed up by a crappy topo and ended up doing an extra short pitch. From the top of pitch 3 do not stop at the first set of anchors of the fourth pitch. Keep going up to the anchors that are inside the dihedral above. Then do the super long 5th pitch to the end of the bolt ladder below the C1 crack. Don't stop at the intermediate anchors at the bottom of the bolt ladder.
We topped out just before midnight after about 18 hours of climbing. We were going slow so don't let that discourage you from attempting it in a day. It is totally doable by an experienced party.
Also, be careful when climbing the 5.4 chimney and the scramble pitch at the top to not dislodge any rocks. I was with 3 feet of getting creamed by a small TV sized boulder which fell from the top. It hit the ledge right next to the haulbag and exploded. I was lucky that a partially chopped haul line was the only casualty. All in all excellent route.