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Comments by illusiondweller (66)

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high ball, looks scary!
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Well, after about two minutes of waiting it finally came up! Guess the fliy never saw it coming!
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3 out of 5 stars nice to watch overall, I'm jealous...thanks
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Hey guys, I'm sitting here in New Jersey and it's awesome to feel the inspiration from this video. Although a long time climber, I've been in and out of the climbing circles for about three years now and seeing this just confirms where my heart is, thanks!
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flowed nicely, well done.
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Consensus rating, anyone?
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Thanks again Jeff.
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I spoke with J. Vawter and he is not absolutley sure what Werner Landry dubbed the actual TPP in the '73 contest but going by the C. Fry guide and the beta that G. Epperson gave back in the early eighties it appears to be this route. Vawter states there were not any "sit starts" back in that day so the sit start traverse in from the right doesn't appear to be part of the original TPP.
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Good job goes out to the Canadians and the JT local that made short work of this on Saturday the 14th!
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The "V" rating didn't come into use till the 80's, well after the YDS was created. San tee has been bouldered back in the early days hence the YDS still reflected today. IMHO the YDS allows for more flexibility in consensus ratings.
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Erikkkkkkk.....Eliotttttt.....Animal Mantle is calling your naaaaaaaame!
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3 out of 5 stars Good work Erik and Eliot!
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3 out of 5 stars You guys (Erik and Eliot) ticked this one pretty darn quick!
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Blast from the past! I remember yelling "GERONIMO!" as I began the trip out the roof off one piece, back in '82
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Classic Josh! Not as easy as you make it out to be!
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You're sooo strong Chris, don't be intimidated by it...you'll float this in a day if you hunker down and work this!
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I'm hoping to recruit someone to capture the top half of the problem soon to complete the video. I've just never seen a video of IHMT so I got impatient and posted it.
Aids Victim doesnt really count as a crack in my book so you can't even compare the two. Hard as Nails (11a/b) has a face crux right off the ground to get into the crack which, in itself is 10d so you can't really compare that one either. Mother Superior is an OW (different animal completely) with a 11c face at the top. PHD is laybacking to a 12a face, scratch that one. Getting over the lip of Driving South definitely has a harder crank than any move on IHMT, hence the 11d/12a rating. Hidetaka Suzuki (Japanese crack guru) said to me, in his broken english, after onsighting Driving South, "If on a route, must be 12a." Try Vice Principals Office, or Starving in Stereo, or Widow's Bereft or Lie Detector or Sin Eater over on the Mt. Everest Boulder or Laverne back on hwy 67...all comparable or harder than IHMT!
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Here is an email from myself to John Bachar himself and a good friend Ken Klis regarding it's FA:

John,
Fill me in on the story behind "I Hear My Train a Comin'" on Mt. Woodson. Rumor has it that you third classed this on it's first ascent. I've always wondered over the years.
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From: bachar
Date Sent:
Mar 4, 2006, 12:37 PM

Hey Gary! Thanks for the compliments! I'm pretty sure I did the first as a boulder problem but I also could have top-roped it first - just can't remember. I know I did Drivin' South as a bouldering first ascent however - pretty scary!
cheers, jb
=================================


By Ken Klis
Sep 17, 2007

My sometimes unreliable memory recalls Rick Piggot telling me that it had already been freed before Bachar's ascent. Locals had been bear-hugging up an oak tree and reaching out into the good finger locks past the crux.

Then Bachar showed up and onsight flashed it from the ground, and I think Rick told me it was 3rd classed too.

It sent all the locals running over there to try the additional moves.

The convenient tree limb is long gone now. And all this was in the 70's, before I was hanging out there.
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2009-07-14
I'm hoping to recruit someone to capture the top half of the problem soon to complete the video. I've just never seen a video of IHMT so I got impatient and posted it.
Out of all those listed pbjosh, only one is a continuous crack where your hands/fingers are in the crack from start to finish and that's Driving South. AIDS Victim doesnt really count as a crack in my book so you can't even compare the two. Hard as Nails (11a/b) has a face crux right off the ground to get into the crack which, in itself is 10d so you can't really compare that one either. Mother Superior is an OW (different animal completely) with a 11c face at the top. PHD is laybacking to a 12a face, scratch that one. Getting over the lip of Driving South definitely has a harder crank than any move on IHMT, hence the 11d/12a rating. Hidetaka Suzuki (Japanese crack guru) said to me, in his broken english, after onsighting Driving South, "If on a route, must be 12a." Try Vice Principals Office, or Starving in Stereo, or Widow's Bereft or Lie Detector or Sin Eater over on the Mt. Everest Boulder or Laverne back on hwy 67...all comparable or harder than IHMT!
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pbjosh

2009-07-13
RIP John Bachar...

This is one of the hardest 5.11s that I know of. I think all the hardest 5.11s I can think of are at Woodson, to be honest. Sure we all get it dialed, but it's still a gnarly crank.

For my money it's harder than Aids Victim, PhD, or Tough as Nails, and at least comparable to and possibly harder than Driving South and Mother Superior. No doubt, however, that if you ran into ANY of those problems high up on a multipitch trad route, the route would be harder than 5.11+
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curt

2009-07-12
To be continued? WTF?
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2009-07-11
You're sooo strong Chris, don't be intimidated by it...you'll float this in a day if you hunker down and work this!
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klepacabra

2009-07-11
yeeyaa Gary!! is that a solo? soo sweet iv been wanting to hit up I hear my Train a comin for a while now.....but im still working on those finger stacks and various smaller crack/seam techniques...so one of these days for sure....nice video...
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4 out of 5 stars Watching you progress through this brought back old memories Josh. Good job!
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4 out of 5 stars Yes
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4 out of 5 stars esoteric1

2009-06-21 good job, that things painfull!
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5 out of 5 stars proklepto86 (1 day ago)

YAAA that is sooo sick, and its a pretty high ballsy solo...... isn't that like 25-30 feet.....wow... i am going to definately start putting some heavy work into this problem....its such a beautiful problem.....and you make it look almost too easy. Well i love the video and this is definately an inspiration.....stoked to see the full completed video....awesome job!


digitsdelight (1 day ago)

I actually dropped a rope plumb from the top and it measured 31' 9".


digitsdelight (1 day ago)

With your ability Chris, you'll walk this thing!
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5 out of 5 stars Hey, way cool vid man!
Michael Paul
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5 out of 5 stars By Ken Klis
Sep 17, 2007
My sometimes unreliable memory recalls Rick Piggot telling me that it had already been freed before Bachar's ascent. Locals had been bear-hugging up an oak tree and reaching out into the good finger locks past the crux.

Then Bachar showed up and onsight flashed it from the ground, and I think Rick told me it was 3rd classed too.

It sent all the locals running over there to try the additional moves.

The convenient tree limb is long gone now. And all this was in the 70's, before I was hanging out there.
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5 out of 5 stars Here are some excerpts from an email from myself to JB regarding it's FA:

John,
...P.S. Fill me in on the story behind "I Hear My Train a Comin'" on Mt. Woodson. Rumor has it that you third classed this on it's first ascent. I've always wondered over the years.
==============================================

From: bachar
Date Sent:
Mar 4, 2006, 12:37 PM

Hey Gary! Thanks for the compliments! I'm pretty sure I did the first as a boulder problem but I also could have top-roped it first - just can't remember. I know I did Drivin' South as a bouldering first ascent however - pretty scary!
cheers, jb
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5 out of 5 stars Great job! Not bad for an old man.
Joe
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5 out of 5 stars Pretty cool Broham
Lanny
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5 out of 5 stars Congrats,
I was thinking about you the other day.
Terry
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5 out of 5 stars Nice work Gary! Hear my Train is no joke! I can't wait to get back to Mt. Woodson now.
Eliot
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Speechless...
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5 out of 5 stars JKVawter

I see from your vids that you are hanging with some young guys who are very strong. How many of us ever got off the ground on Hear My Train in the 70's? Bachar, Piggot, Kauk, BVB, Mike Paul, maybe a dozen more. That's very impressive to me because even now when pad people are climbing V10s, you hardly ever see anyone get off the ground on that thing!
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Cool coverage...great job!
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Yes, a 5.11a boulder problem. I'm assuming you are referring to the "V" rating system? Santee Boulders was climbed close to 20 years before John Sherman developed the system exclusively for Hueco Tanks in Texas. If you applied the "V" system to Santee Boulders most everything would be V0 - V3 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing). Some are already applying the "V" system and ratings of V5 are being applied to climbs < 5.12. You be the judge!

Although the "V" system took off and it is the more widely used bouldering system today and for the "new schoolers", I, myself (old school), still don't use it today.
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4 out of 5 stars I spoke with J. Vawter and he is not absolutley sure what Werner Landry dubbed the actual TPP in the '73 contest but going by the C. Fry guide and the beta that G. Epperson gave back in the early eighties it appears to be this route. Vawter states there were not any "sit starts" back in that day so the sit start traverse in from the right doesn't appear to be part of the original TPP
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3 out of 5 stars Take a look at this impossibility ya'll!
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3 out of 5 stars This is harder than it looks!
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5 out of 5 stars LOL, "pad people", awesome!
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vernemszalka (5 days ago)
You have got to be kidding... it is possible? been working on that for months!
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4 out of 5 stars Trench (Adam) you aren't implying that I'm reaching around the "left shoulder" are you, lol?! Note the description above: "if the edges are bigger than the edge of a bottle cap then you are off route!"
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3 out of 5 stars Pretty video, although, let this be this a lesson to the beginners out there! Note the position of the belayer in relation to the first piece of protection and that she is not anchored in. If the climber fell, he'd lift the belayer right up off her feet, carrying her in the direction of the line of pull and slamming or dragging her into the rocks in front of her. The result of such a mechanism may cause her to release her brake hand (unless she's using a grigri or similar device), or rend her unconscious resulting in a ground fall for the climber or worse! Look where she positions herself as he turns the lip for the top. God forbid he fell at this point!

As the belayer, if positioning yourself beneath the first piece of protection is not possible, anchor yourself in to avoid being pulled off your stance and ultimately causing injury to yourself and/or dropping the climber. Now, I can't see what's below them but if Murphy was present and that first piece blew for some unknown reason after he climbed above it, and the belayer isn't protected, they'd both be in a world of hurt as they fell off the cliff below in tandem. Be safe all!
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3 out of 5 stars Vector511c (3 weeks ago)
Nice one Gary! That's a tough mantel.
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4 out of 5 stars milesenoell

2009-09-08 the mantle was nice.
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4 out of 5 stars Yes, a 5.11a boulder problem. I'm assuming you are referring to the "V" rating system? Santee Boulders was climbed close to 20 years before John Sherman developed the system exclusively for Hueco Tanks in Texas. If you applied the "V" system to Santee Boulders most everything would be V0 - V3 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing). Some are already applying the "V" system and ratings of V5 are being applied to climbs < 5.12. You be the judge!

Although the "V" system took off and it is the more widely used bouldering system today and for the "new schoolers", I myself (old school), still don't use it today.
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4 out of 5 stars dreday3000

2009-08-31 Looks like a neat boulder problem. Why is it rated 5.11a?
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5 out of 5 stars Imagine Mike Paul doing this solo at 15 years old in Asics tennies (see photo), unbelievable!
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