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Comments by oklahoma (4)

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it's probably closer to a v3
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So took the trip to new zealand this afternoon and those grades are wrong. Unless you guys are working on some eliminate problems. Judging from the videos we climbed the same things. World traveler is a V4/V5 at best. Moby dick isn't a V7 I'd give it around a V5 as well. Not to say they aren't fun climbs. They just aren't as hard as you're saying they are. Not a big deal I guess. Also, from the Tulsa direction 1 1/2 hours is a little far to drive for these rocks considering the rock that we have that is much closer to Tulsa. Not sure what you guys are working with in Springfield but it seams like Arkansas would have some better rock that's within an 1 1/2 hours. Not saying this to be disrespectful. Just callin 'em like I see 'em.
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No we didn't take any video. yes we got on granddaddy purp and also budda belly. fun climbs. Watching this video we climbed world traveller using the same holds. On Moby dick, I started more to the right and went straight up.

It's not a bad area. It's just not worth the drive from Tulsa. It's a handful of boulders with a handful of problems. No disrespect.

Obviously, I don't live in springfield but it seems like for an hour more driving you could be at horseshoe or any number of areas around Mt. Judea. Area 74 is probably only 2 hours away.
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no, we still cimbed the arete. Left hand start was the same as the vid. We started on the farther right crimp then the one he's working with. Also, we had a left foot under the roof on the ledge about 2 inches off the ground and right heel hook on the face. After that it was the same except we weren't sure if the large divot/jug on the far left arete was one so we skipped it and used an intermediate crimp instead. getting your right foot over while holding the crimp and crappy pinch is the crux for sure.