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The Recovery Drink and the World's Hardest Crack Climbs - 2015-02-09 by camhead

Video of Nico Favresse sending The Recovery Drink in Norway has just come out, and he calls it the hardest crack he's done. What are some of the other hardest pure crack climbs in the world?
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Votes: 0 | Comments: 0 | Views: 2309

Indie Buttress Goes Free! - 2015-02-09 by sonso45

Latest addition to desert climbing in Arizona is on Courthouse Rock, a 1,000' volcanic tower west of Phoenix about 70 miles.
Average Rating = 5.00/5 Vote: 1 | Comment: 1 | Views: 6167

Game Changers: Five Innovations and Inventions that Shaped Modern Climbing - 2015-01-23 by camhead

Today, we almost take it for granted that, if we have the fitness and drive, we can safely protect and climb almost anything we want. It hasn't always been this way. Here are the technologies that have made climbing what it is today.
Average Rating = 5.00/5 Votes: 2 | Comments: 3 | Views: 14019

The Most Difficult Big Wall Free Climbs in the World - 2015-01-16 by camhead

By this point, even your grandmother knows that Dawn Wall has been freed, and is the most overall difficult free climb in the world. But what were its predecessors and some of the other big, hard routes in the world?
Average Rating = 5.00/5 Vote: 1 | Comments: 5 | Views: 10808

Know Your Land, Pt. 3: Climbing on Private Land - 2015-01-14 by camhead

Many of us may bristle at the prospect of sacrificing our freedom to climb on private land. But do you know what? Many of the best areas, especially in the Southeast US, are not public. Here's your guide to these areas.
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Votes: 0 | Comments: 0 | Views: 8404

The First-timer's Guide to Winter Cragging - 2014-12-25 by camhead

Want to climb in the winter? Can't afford to fly to Thailand and don't want to climb ice? Read on.
Average Rating = 5.00/5 Votes: 2 | Comments: 2 | Views: 9880

Know Your Land, Pt. 1: Climbing on Federal Lands - 2014-12-18 by camhead

This is part 1 of a three part piece on the types of land ownership that affect climbers.
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Votes: 0 | Comments: 2 | Views: 9857

Soft Rock, Wet Rock: A Public Service Reminder from Red Rocks - 2014-12-17 by camhead

Report from Vegas, where a hold on one of the country's hardest boulder problems just broke due to climbers on the wet rock.
Average Rating = 5.00/5 Votes: 2 | Comment: 1 | Views: 4006

Appalachian Sling: A Tour of the Misty Mountain factory - 2014-12-10 by camhead

Ever wanted to know what goes into making slings and harnesses? Or how a small company that is nearly 100% made in the USA operates? Read further.
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Votes: 0 | Comments: 0 | Views: 2276

Chantel Astorga Sets New Female Solo Speed Record on The Nose - 2014-12-09 by camhead

This fall we reported on the women’s speed record of The Nose being broken by Libby Sauter and Mayan Smith-Gobat. At the same time, Chantel Astorga was quietly crushing the women’s solo speed record.
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Votes: 0 | Comments: 0 | Views: 2678

Rockprodigy Revisited: An Interview with Mike Anderson - 2014-12-01 by camhead

Eight years ago, Mike Anderson wrote a training article for this site that has become the most viewed page on We managed to get an interview with him, in which he talks about training, progression, and the new book he wrote with his brother Mark, The Rock Climber's Training Manual.
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Votes: 0 | Comments: 0 | Views: 2538

Everything You Ever Wanted to Know about Climbing Grades (at least in the U.S.) - 2014-11-20 by camhead

The history, development, and headaches that go into attaching numbers to rock climbs.
Average Rating = 5.00/5 Vote: 1 | Comment: 1 | Views: 5651

The History and Future of Climbing Style and Ethics - 2014-11-06 by camhead

We throw around the terms "style" and "ethics" quite a bit in climbing. But what do they mean? How did their meanings come to be? Check out this fairly long essay for more than you've ever wanted to know on the topic. It's the responsible, ethical thing to do.
Average Rating = 4.83/5 Votes: 6 | Comments: 4 | Views: 5926

Geology for Climbers, Part I: Igneous is Bliss - 2014-11-01 by camhead

This is the first part of a three-part article series that will outline different geological types of rocks throughout North America, and the techniques and gear that are best to climb them.
Average Rating = 5.00/5 Votes: 3 | Comment: 1 | Views: 7840

Literature on the Rock: An Annotated Bibiliography - 2014-10-23 by camhead

There is a lot of mountaineering literature out there, but what about rock climbing, or even bouldering? Here are a few of the best non-fiction memoirs or biographies on rock, which every climber should read.
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Votes: 0 | Comments: 0 | Views: 1816

Gear: So You Want to be an Intermediate? - 2014-10-20 by camhead

You've bought your basic harness, belay device, shoes, and are crushing the white-tape route at the gym. But do you want to start improving and diversifying your climbing skills? Here's the gear you will need to break the "beginner" barrier.
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Votes: 0 | Comments: 2 | Views: 1996

The Climbing Dictionary: Slang Edition - 2014-10-17 by camhead already has one of the internet's best dictionaries of climbing terminology. Here's our Urban Dictionary version!
Average Rating = 5.00/5 Vote: 1 | Comments: 0 | Views: 9700

All It's Chalked Up to Be: Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About the White Stuff - 2014-10-13 by camhead

Along with shoes, chalk is the only piece of climbing gear that we use which directly helps us climb up the rock better. But we don't really think about it too much.
Average Rating = 5.00/5 Vote: 1 | Comments: 4 | Views: 6015

The Best of the Worst: Five Gumby Climbing Videos and What We Can Learn From Them - 2014-10-02 by camhead

In the era of camera phones, GoPros, and YouTube, it seems like the internet is flooded with footage of climbers making mistakes and getting hurt. Here are some of the internet's best, or worst, depending on which way you look at it.
Average Rating = 4.43/5 Votes: 7 | Comments: 4 | Views: 9597

Program Design for Climbing Part 2: Sport-Specific Training - 2014-10-02 by DouglasHunter

Second in a series of articles on training program design. Here I describe the basic criteria necessary for a training activity to be considered sport-specific.
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Votes: 0 | Comments: 0 | Views: 1448

2012 Photo Contest - Results - 2012-12-24 by admin

The winner of the 2012 Photo Contest is "Swing Swing From That Jug Jug" submitted by user skyalchemist.
Average Rating = 1.00/5 Vote: 1 | Comments: 3 | Views: 2252

Metolius Training Board Competition Finalists - 2012-12-18 by admin

Thank you all for the entries we have received for the Metolius Training Board Competition, here are the top 5 entries.
Average Rating = 1.00/5 Votes: 2 | Comments: 0 | Views: 4163

Why Do You Climb Mountains? - Because they are there! - 2012-11-08 by lawdoc02

Why do you climb Mountains? "Because they are there" said legend and icon Mallory.
Average Rating = 3.00/5 Vote: 1 | Comments: 0 | Views: 12036

100 Meters up Savandurga - 2012-09-04 by Normanras

Spending two weeks in Southern India visiting some well-known as well as unknown rock climbing spots. With no gear came some sketchy climbs.
Average Rating = 2.50/5 Votes: 2 | Comments: 3 | Views: 5939

Naked Disco Dance Party in J-Tree - 2012-08-01 by admin

It is two o’clock in the afternoon on a warm spring day in the desert. “There’s a naked disco dance party tonight,” Holly says. Normally naked and party could be inviting, but in the climbing world the chances of a decent ratio of sexes is slim.
Average Rating = 5.00/5 Votes: 2 | Comment: 1 | Views: 11340

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